50amp on 120/208 service

Cummins12V98 wrote:
HMMMMM, I have a 220V Washer AND Dryer. I also have 220V Cheap Heat.

Really stuck in the middle on that. ;)

Chris Bryant wrote:
FWIW, the heat pump in my Florida house was rated to run on 208 or 240.

My home heat pump is the same. The specs for the air handler give backup heat output values for both 208 and 240.

CA Traveler wrote:
208V Shouldn't be a problem with RVs that don't have 240 AC motors or appliances.

But are you guys really sure about what you're posting for condos, etc. I've always believed most appliances were 120/240V single phase. And you seem to be suggesting 120/208 2 phase (120 degree phase) difference is OK, I'd have reservations about single phase motors on this power. Plus my understanding is the target voltage is +-10% or 216V and not 208V.

In my house every AC has 2 motors. The dryer is gas with a 120V motor. Don't know what motor power an electric dry requires.

BTW Every home/condo that I'm aware of uses 120/240V single phase.

Although the two phases are 120 degrees from each other, the phase to phase waveform still works out to be a sine wave, so it's "normal" single phase power albeit at a lower voltage. There are plenty of single-phase motors that are rated to operate at either 208V or 240V (and likewise plenty that are not so rated).

In apartments, more so than in condos, major appliances are usually supplied by the landlord as part of the unit. Naturally if they happen to have 208V rather than 240V power for the dryer or air conditioner they would select units that are appropriate for the supply. Smaller window air conditioners such as a tenant might have and use on their own would generally be 120V.

"NOTHING in yoru RV needs 240 volts (Minor exception if you have an ALL ELECTRIC RV that may not be the case) Everythign is 120 volt"

HMMMMM, I have a 220V Washer AND Dryer. I also have 220V Cheap Heat.

Bottom line I would consult a QUALIFIED Electrician.

Due to an error by the NY state contract ordering folks, we had 240v dryers installed in our costume shop wired with 120/208v. They worked, but took much longer to dry than they would at 240v. As to 120v loads, there is no difference between connection to 120/240v or 120/208v.

CA Traveler wrote:
BTW Every home/condo that I'm aware of uses 120/240V single phase.

I manage a rental condo on 208/120 service. And have talked with others on same.

Has become a periodic issue in the EV world. The newest Nissan LEAF charging cord works on 120 volts or 240 volts. Does not work on 208 service causing frustration due to a lame oversight by Nissan. ALL aftermarket charging cords work on 208/240 range of voltage.

FWIW, the heat pump in my Florida house was rated to run on 208 or 240.

208V Shouldn't be a problem with RVs that don't have 240 AC motors or appliances.

But are you guys really sure about what you're posting for condos, etc. I've always believed most appliances were 120/240V single phase. And you seem to be suggesting 120/208 2 phase (120 degree phase) difference is OK, I'd have reservations about single phase motors on this power. Plus my understanding is the target voltage is +-10% or 216V and not 208V.

In my house every AC has 2 motors. The dryer is gas with a 120V motor. Don't know what motor power an electric dry requires.

BTW Every home/condo that I'm aware of uses 120/240V single phase.

It can easily be done but keep in mind that even with a 240V connection, you are still only using one phase (spit phase).

50A RVs connections, per the NEC, are permitted to be either 120/208V or 120/240V. RVs should (and generally are) designed and built to work properly with 208V between the legs. Even if there are 240V devices, usually they're just heating elements that work fine at 208V...indeed, most electric ranges, water heaters, etc. are labeled for both voltages, as apartment buildings and such are not infrequently wired with 120/208V three phase power.

In short, you shouldn't have any problems, and I doubt there would be any concerns with the agency having jurisdiction assuming the wiring is done properly to standard by qualified people. (That, of course, generally means by a certified electrician.)