There is a PF of maybe 0.7 adding to the converter's draw in 120v which does not translate into DC amps out using the 10 times rule AFAIK. Also there is a mystery wiring resistance in the rig (too long or thin) adding to battery resistance which is why it won't go into boost, so that may (not sure--ask somebody else!) leave the converter running harder on 120 for fewer amps seen at the battery.
You really need an ammeter at the battery. You can mark the progress of the recharge by how the battery voltage does rise. Eventually it will reach converter voltage and amps stop, so now that is when the battery is considered full (except its SG might not be up where it belongs)
If you had some sort of measuring set-up, you could make a graph of how the battery voltage gets closer to the converter voltage over time and SOCs along the way, so after that you could get your SOC from watching both those voltages. Easier to see amps tapering and have an idea of what amps the battery will accept at that voltage at that SOC.