Here is what I learned about Li so far.
1) You need to disable Float mode in converter or set it below 13V. Cheaper converters don't have this option and neither do cheap solar chargers. Even not very cheap "Li-compatible" solar chargers will require setting a custom charging profile because the chances that its preset Li profile will match your Li battery are slim.
2) Equalization MUST be disabled. Luckily, most chargers allow this.
3) Li don't need to be charged 100% every time.
3) Li weigh 2 times less than FLA of the same nominal cpacity and "recommended" usable capacity is 80% of nominal, while FLA recommends only 50%. BMS will stop Li from discharging when it's completely empty, this is not recommended in daily use. Nominal capacity of many but not all Li batts = available capacity give or take a few AH, there is no 20% reserve, though some manufacturers provide such a reserve by marketing 120AH Li as 100AH nominal.
4) Li warranties are much longer - typically 3 years warranty for manufacturers defects + 7 years prorated warranty. They typically guarantee 5000-6000 cycles before available capacity drops to 80%, when used properly - meaning charging/discharging as recommended (usually 0.2C). They can take more than 0.2C but this will shorten their life.
5) Li hate being charged and stored in very hot weather, 32-113F is recommended, routinely subjecting them to +100F will shorten their life. Discharging is more tolerable of temps, range 0-130F.
4) In $ per cycle Li cost more than FLA, but in $ per AH through the life of battery Li are cheaper. (Because more cycles and each cycle is 1.6 times deeper).
