A Hockey Puck 15/30Amp Adapter to Avoid

The safety ground lug should never carry any significant current unless there's a fault elsewhere. A "hot skin" condition only occurs if the neutral and ground are bonded in the RV in violation of the NEC or shorted together, AND the power source hot and neutral are reversed. Just the absence of the ground alone should not cause any problems, although it's certainly not advised to leave it that way in case a fault should occur.

The trouble is Puck's period
Eventually they all suffer problems
Good heavy dog bones are best

Those adapters are really cheap but the CSA logo is accurate and the original importing company can use CSA as an NTRL for US certification.

wife had one do that,I just though it was a fluke.

PapPappy wrote:
Interesting....
I have a dog that I got in the USA, that has Canadian "Papers"....now I have to wonder if he's gonna short out too!:B

Glad that nobody was hurt with this, and thanks for passing this along, I'm sure that lots of folks have them.

Do you think that it is faulty, from day one, or did it maybe get overheated, and then fail? Even a well made unit can't take a lot more amps than it's designed for, though I'm sure there is a bit of room for error/overload.

The problem was from day one. The round female 30A ground connector was too large to mate with the corresponding 30A male connector. It was an intermittent open circuit that did not conduct any significant current. The normal current through a ground conductor is less then 5 millAmps (0.005 Amps). Once the bad connection was established I crimped the female through the rubber as a temporary measure until I could get a proper 15A to 30A Dog Bone adaptor. You can actually see the conductor surface I deformed/crimped in the picture.

Interesting....
I have a dog that I got in the USA, that has Canadian "Papers"....now I have to wonder if he's gonna short out too!:B

Glad that nobody was hurt with this, and thanks for passing this along, I'm sure that lots of folks have them.

Do you think that it is faulty, from day one, or did it maybe get overheated, and then fail? Even a well made unit can't take a lot more amps than it's designed for, though I'm sure there is a bit of room for error/overload.