AC Experts: How to Spoof or Disable Thermostat?

GordonThree wrote:
So I bought the biggest dehumidifier I could find for cheap (90 pint) and it runs along with the AC. Makes the cabin nice and comfy quickly.

Probably generates enough heat to keep the AC running too.

greenrvgreen wrote:
I ask because I want to prevent the AC from blowing humidity back into the cabin when the compressor cycles. IMO humid air is uncomfortable no matter how cool it is. I would rather make the cabin too cold and then shut the AC off manually, and then restart the AC manually after the head pressure has bled off.

The AC I'm asking about is the Coleman Mach 1 power saver 11k btu, with separate thermostat. Gordon's info on jumpering the thermo wire is just the kind of idea I'm looking for. As an alternative, if there was some simple way to make the wall thermo think it was 80* when it was actually 60*, that would be even better.

Provided sufficient shore power, I run a dehumidifier along with my AC. My tiny trailer has a 13500 AC, which is too much cooling for such a small space. It cools the cabin so quickly, it doesn't leave time to draw out humidity. It's probably designed to cool the cabin in Arizona or Florida heat, which I don't run into very often.

So I bought the biggest dehumidifier I could find for cheap (90 pint) and it runs along with the AC. Makes the cabin nice and comfy quickly.

Remount thermostat next to the water heater or in the sun. At least make sure all vents are pointed directly away from the thermostat.

Although afaik there is not outside air getting in. Just interior air is recirculated. people, cooking, bathing do add to the humidity. And when it is hot mine never cycles off anyway. Especially if the set point is very low.

The sensor in the intake is a freeze sensor and will only defeat your plan if disconnected. In fact you should make sure it is mounted up directly on or in the evaporator for best function. If your evaporator freezes you will not have cooling or humidity control. Maybe this is partly your issue.

Also check the inside plenum divider is well sealed between air in and air out. Remove all the interior trim to check this and the freeze sensor.

I ask because I want to prevent the AC from blowing humidity back into the cabin when the compressor cycles. IMO humid air is uncomfortable no matter how cool it is. I would rather make the cabin too cold and then shut the AC off manually, and then restart the AC manually after the head pressure has bled off.

The AC I'm asking about is the Coleman Mach 1 power saver 11k btu, with separate thermostat. Gordon's info on jumpering the thermo wire is just the kind of idea I'm looking for. As an alternative, if there was some simple way to make the wall thermo think it was 80* when it was actually 60*, that would be even better.

Just be prepared.

It may run until you shut it off or it may run until it ices up and self destructs.

Just turn the temp way down.

Would help to post the make and model. Wall thermostat? BTU?

Why?

inside the ceiling panel for my AC there's a schematic that shows what all the connections are. Just pull the ones for the compressor and condenser fan off the thermostat and jumper them appropriately with stiff pieces of wire.

as I recall, it was three wires. common power in, fan high and compressor. jumper those three and she'll run till she burns out!

be wary of ice-up on the cooling fins, as the temp drops, humidity is going to increase as it's hard to extract water from cold air without freezing it.