ac temp.
my 15500 btu ac is duct in but has a dump so you can cool the living area 1st. I was wondering what the temp should be if I stuck a thermometer in the dump or air flow? This is not a year old yet and ...
Forum Discussion
wa8yxm wrote:
To fully and properly test teh operation of an air conditioner you need to know several things
1: Indoor temp (at the intake)
2: Outlet temp indoor
3: Outdoor temp (At the intake)
4: (in case you have not yet guessed) Outlet temp (outdoor).
5 Humidity, indoor and 6 outdoor.
Then you need the charts from the maker, or the computer program.
Source, all the books on Air Conditioning both automotive and home that I've ever read agreed on all but Humidity. SOME included that.
You do NOT have any outside air to inside at all on RV AC units---SAME with residential. You DO have outside to inside on Automotive.
There are NO charts and NO "supercool" procedure on RV AC units. ALL RV AC models with the same model number use an EXACT charge of coolant. Usually around 1 lb, give or take a few ozs. The exact Coolant charge is on ALL the spec plates on the RV AC unit. The REASON they have exact charge is because all of the same model have the exact same size lines and system components, unlike residential or commercial systems. The temp differential is for novices as there are a number of factors that can cause a wide swing on a perfectly good AC unit--how well the intake to exhaust plenum is sealed and the ductwork is sealed. The ONLY true valid test of performance on a RV AC unit is the compressor amp draw with a temp corrected amp reading. It is based on 95 degree ambient and you subtract 1 amp for each 10 degrees below 95 ambient and add 1 amp for each 10 degrees above 95 ambient. You CANNOT read Home and Automotive manuals and then think you know RV systems. Doug
