Adding Supplemental Propane tanks

You need to tie in on the high pressure side of reg. It looks like it may turn into a big job with the cast pipe. Might be best to remove the longer pipe on the top and replace with two smaller lengths with a T off for the fitting. I did mine but I have hoses. I bought all my parts at Tractor Supply.

Please check with your local LPG distributor work shop as to how to go about doing this correctly. You need correctly rated pipe, and valves.

Yes you can tap into that line by replacing the elbow with a T. You can get all the parts you need at any hardware store. Just remember it is a high pressure line. Ace hardware will cut and thread the pipe for you.

If you can plum a water pipe, you can plum a gas pipe. Theres no difference except for using non galvanize pipe You are working w/ around 150 lbs pressure.
I think you supposed to use a different sealer on gas pipe, but I always used plain ole tef tape, or white pipe sealer. But then I've used a lot of galvanize on gas too, never a problem.

gdreese wrote:
Yes you can tap into that line by replacing the elbow with a T. You can get all the parts you need at any hardware store. Just remember it is a high pressure line. Ace hardware will cut and thread the pipe for you.

Agree, would suggest putting a shut-off valve at the tee for secondary tank supply input. Might consider using a hi-flow quick connect set for the flex line needed for a portable tank. Make sure any of the hardware/piping/fittings will pass the need amount of gas flow (btu's). No need for an additional regulator as you are plumbing into the high pressure side of the existing system. Use Pipe Dope not tape for best results. Make sure what ever sealant is used that it is rated for LPG usage. White water service tape is not usually rated for gas installs.

Take a look here for LPG quick connects.
http://mbsturgis.com/products/mb/rv-propane-hoses-sturgi-stays-quick-disconnects-regulators.html

Malleable iron fittings for gas, NOT cast (gas is "slippery'). Steel pipe as galvanized can shed the coating from inside the pipe into your regulator or other sensitive equipment. I prefer RectorSeal over yellow tape for sealing gas joints.

The only suggestion I have is to consider the 5 gal tanks instead. Sometimes in my travels the only place I can get propane when needed is at the places that exchange the 5 gal tanks. I have a setup that has a combination of the two sizes, so I am good either way. If I only had 7.5s, it could be a problem sometimes.

mapguy wrote:

gdreese wrote:
Yes you can tap into that line by replacing the elbow with a T. You can get all the parts you need at any hardware store. Just remember it is a high pressure line. Ace hardware will cut and thread the pipe for you.

Agree, would suggest putting a shut-off valve at the tee for secondary tank supply input. Might consider using a hi-flow quick connect set for the flex line needed for a portable tank. Make sure any of the hardware/piping/fittings will pass the need amount of gas flow (btu's). No need for an additional regulator as you are plumbing into the high pressure side of the existing system. Use Pipe Dope not tape for best results. Make sure what ever sealant is used that it is rated for LPG usage. White water service tape is not usually rated for gas installs.

Take a look here for LPG quick connects.
http://mbsturgis.com/products/mb/rv-propane-hoses-sturgi-stays-quick-disconnects-regulators.html

Thanks for the link. It even had a picture of exactly what i want to do with my same tank. Coincidentally, I even have the same grill!