Adjustable Voltage Boondocker Converter Question
Do Randy's new adjustable boondocker converters have the initial 15 minute boost feature? thanxx!
Forum Discussion
From what the PM guy told me, the in-rush stress on the thermistor is higher when I start the unit with the knob turned right up at 15.2v or whatever in cold weather, and it kicks off at its 100amps. It would be less stress to start out at a lower voltage for the required 120v input VA/watts.
I notice my VEC1093DBD set to 40a kicks off at lower amps and quickly steps up to its 40.4a instead of hitting 40.4 at first. Maybe that's why.
I don't know if it matters if the unit is already going at 13.6v at some amps and you jack up the voltage to 15v and now get more amps. I have done that and it doesn't seem to bother the charger.
The Honda conking out was what caused all this in the first place with me. I did not warm it up first and it got hit with the 100amper at 14.8 VA demand and the engine conked out immediately--the breaker didn't pop as such, but it lost power with no engine of course.. I had to restart the Honda engine to get 120v again and that gave the charger a hot restart (ie thermistor already hot) It takes longer than they say before it is safe to do a restart too. It is supposed to be ok again after a minute or two but I had trouble after 15 minutes waiting when I was doing some tests on that with the lid off so I could see the thermistor. Had a thread on that a couple years ago.
It came out in the long thermistor thread that I should connect first and start the unit afterwards too, so there is less stress. That applies to me when I have the charger connecting with clamps and not like a converter that is already wired to the batteries.
I have been getting by ok since then with no more thermistor trouble now I have learned how to behave :)
I notice my VEC1093DBD set to 40a kicks off at lower amps and quickly steps up to its 40.4a instead of hitting 40.4 at first. Maybe that's why.
I don't know if it matters if the unit is already going at 13.6v at some amps and you jack up the voltage to 15v and now get more amps. I have done that and it doesn't seem to bother the charger.
The Honda conking out was what caused all this in the first place with me. I did not warm it up first and it got hit with the 100amper at 14.8 VA demand and the engine conked out immediately--the breaker didn't pop as such, but it lost power with no engine of course.. I had to restart the Honda engine to get 120v again and that gave the charger a hot restart (ie thermistor already hot) It takes longer than they say before it is safe to do a restart too. It is supposed to be ok again after a minute or two but I had trouble after 15 minutes waiting when I was doing some tests on that with the lid off so I could see the thermistor. Had a thread on that a couple years ago.
It came out in the long thermistor thread that I should connect first and start the unit afterwards too, so there is less stress. That applies to me when I have the charger connecting with clamps and not like a converter that is already wired to the batteries.
I have been getting by ok since then with no more thermistor trouble now I have learned how to behave :)
