Boondocker converters vs.Progressive converters?

They both work well. They have different specs and charging profiles. There are several different ones of each.

First you need to know what you need/want, then find a match.

IF you have flooded wet cells Progressive Dynamics is very hard to beat plus they are MADE IN THE USA.. (Visited the factory I did)

They now make a charger of one of the LIthium battery companies.

But if you have anything else.. Well they are not programmable.

Progressive Dynamics:
1) Good about going to boost mode (14.4 volts) when expected and will hold boost up to four hours before dropping to normal.
2) Available in 14.8 volts for charging GC2 batteries.
3) Tends to have have voltage or current sag near full output.
4) Wizard allows manual control of the charging mode.
5) Complete 120/12 volt distribution center is available.

Boondocker:
1) Always starts in boost mode (14.6 volts?) and drops to normal within 15 minutes of hitting that set point.
2) Available with manually adjustable voltage if desired.


Both have an MBA (main board assembly) for direct WFCO replacement.
Both have a short boost mode about once a day for improved maintenance during storage mode.

I would tend to go a little smaller with the Boondocker due to the charging profile and a little large on the PD due to the amps sagging a bit at max voltage. Going to also depend on your other equipment, expectations and camping style. Either are far and away better than the WFCO in all conditions.

time2roll wrote:
2) Available in 14.8 volts for charging GC2 batteries.

A necessity for anyone owning Trojan batteries which according to the manufacturer require a 14.8 volt bulk charging voltage, not 14.4 volts.

I replace my stock converter 2 years ago when I upgraded the 2 NAPA junk 12v house batteries to 4 6V EGC2s, with a Boondocker BD1260C (60 Amp 4-Stage Converter/Charger). It has been flawless, No battery "cooking" and charging is spot on.

The PowerMax LK model (Boondocker is a re-brand) in its standard three- stage mode, does 30 minutes at 14.5ish before dropping to 13.x. (the older model did the 15 minute thing)

If that does not suit, you go to the manual single voltage mode where you dial in the desired voltage and it stays there until you change it. This will not be ideal for many RVers who would rather have automatic charging. However,

14.8v is for 77F (25C) To meet that spec at 35F you would need 15.2 volts. Can't do that with the PD, can do it with the adjustable voltage PowerMax.

So if you really don't care that much and want automatic, go PD and use the Charge Wizard as being the most you are willing to play with, but if you are wanting to do it right and have the temperament, the time, and the interest, get the PowerMax and learn how to use it.

https://powermaxconverters.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/PM3-12V-LK-Manual-2018.pdf

I got a manual adjusted Boondocker a year ago and it has worked very well for me. I don't mind setting and monitoring it since I only use it with the generator and I have to be around when that's running anyway.

i got the powermax adjustable, and easily monitor the voltage and amps charge
from inside the RV with the wireless monitor i put in the living area

I am firmly in the manual adjustable voltage camp for myself, but those who want automatic I have installed PD9245's or Iota DLS-45.

I like the PD better as one can push a button once for 4 more hours of 14.4v, or 14.8 if they get the PD92xx-14.8 model version. They can also hold that button for a bit longer and force 13.6v, or hold it longer to force 13.2v.

I kind of forget the Iota Algorithm, I think it applies its 45 amps until 14.8 is reached at converter ouput terminals, holds that for a while then drops to 14.2v, then after a period of time it then reverts to a lower 'float' voltage. But it is serving its owners and their Costco gc-2s well.

The Powermax automatic models do not hold 14.x volts long enough in my opinion, but probably OK with healthy flooded batts when there is unlimited grid time to plug in. AGMS I say to hold Vabs until amps taper to 0.5% of capacity each and every time when doing so is possible.

With manual, I basically choose 14.7v, or 13.6 on my 40 amp manual adjustable voltage meanwell power supply on an AGM battery. I will adjust those up or down for battery temperature. I have left it at 14.7v overnight many nights, long after the battery was fully charged. No mushroom cloud! Amazing! This AGM Battery is 5.5 years old and ~1100 deep cycles and least 100 of those cycles to the 30% charged range.

If one can properly and fully recharge Lead acid deep cycle or even marine batteries, whether flooded or AGm or GEL, they can achieve impressive lifespans.
Properly and fully almost absolutely requires a human with a brain and the wherewithall to decide how high for how long, whereas 'automatic' falls short of this, to some degree' in most instances. Automatic could certainly be good enough, especially for those whose batteres will age out with few uses per year before they cycle out, like those used by full timers mostly off grid.
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While Trojan specs a 14.82v absorption voltage, it is not as if 14.4v will not be able to fully charge the battery, it will however take longer. Trojan's 14.82v recommendation is likely based upon the fact that 14.82v is some degree less likely to allow chronic undercharging due to too little generator/grid time.
They determined that a 14.82 absorption voltage recommendation is likely to reduce the amount of batteries they have to warranty. In my opinion.

I think anybody generator recharging who wants 'automatic', would be best served by the PD -14.8v model even on AGMs that spec 14.7v max, and anybody who can remember to manually adjust voltage when on the grid, would be better served with adjustable voltage powermax models.

My 40 amp meanwell power supply requires voltage potentiometer modification and better ventlation and heatsinking to be run flat out at max amperage, and voltage adjusted often.

My Northstar AGM recommends 14.46 as Vabs. It has seen 14.7 Vabs most of its life... 5.5 years and 1100+ deep cycles.

I opine that absorption voltage duration, is more important than achieving a precise Absorption voltage 'recommended' by the battery manufacturer. On lead acid batteries anyway.

Thanks for all the great information! I think I will be leaning toward the PD with the Charge Wizard when the time comes. The WFCO 8955 is a three-stage converter and appears to be operating okay now but I am always keeping an eye on it.