Advice on deep cycle setup?
Hello, I have a Safari van that I've converted into a camper. I replaced the starting battery with a Duracell Ultra Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling) Battery that cost $105 (got it at batteries ...
Forum Discussion
I was in the engine comprtment of a '95 chevy van today. 350, CS130.
NIce that the output stud was easily accessible from the inside, and that routing two, 4 awg cables(in split loom) under the body to the battery behind driver, was pretty straightforward. I ran a separate ground alongside the (+) as I try to avoid frame grounds, and it was not my money buying the copper.
I saw the rear bracket on that cs130. 1/8"+ thick steel. I did not see thinking that bending it out of the way for a cs144's extra thickness"? would be particurlarly easy, nor would removing that extra support on the backside of the alternator, seem to be wise course of action.
No idea about the 130 vs 144 mm diameter, I could not really see
I only got in as far as I needed to, and thankfully it was not very far. The cs130 size, seemed small to me. I think my Chrysler 50/120 is a wider diameter, and the expected, and seen, output numbers would seem to make it so.
My personal alternator would make me happier if it could handle 62 amps total at hot idle instead of 48 to 52, but I doubt I will expend any effort into improvement. Redlights ar enot that long and a couple hundred more rpm gime what I need.
I am on my 5th 'lifetime' alternator I bought at Kragen in 2004. Oreilley's replaced it without any paperwork, or cost, just hand them the old and they handed me a new Wilson remanufactured Alternator. I can swap them out in under 15 minutes.
Now, my AC compressor has simply been a pulley since 2005, but ......
can externally regulated alternators work in parallel from same voltage regulator? Different thread.
Regarding the solar panel(s) I think with your roof, if it were mine I would perhaps find a large 24v, 230 to 325 watt panel I would reinforce the corners, and install a diagonal across the bottom of the Panel's frame, and put on a strong hinge on one side. Have a way to tilt it 90degrees and hold it secure, while removing or returning ladder, lower and secure it into place. It beats worrying about partial shading, and MPPT is not as $$$ as compared to a decade ago.
In 2007 I spent over 730$, for a single 130 watt panel delivered. If I were making a new system for myself in a new van i would be all over the single huge wattage/size panel, and 24v+ capable MPPT charge controller
Regarding any solar wattage to Ah capacity ratio, I have 198 watts feeding 90Ah of battery. Soon it will be 298 watts, and I would prefer more, more solar wattage, not battery capacity.
With AGMs I would say got no less than 2:1 solar wattage to battery capacity, in a full time rig.
It is simply hard to have too much solar, and very easy to have way too little. Without being able to control the alternators outpu voltage, well i regularly see 3x more amp flow at 14.7 compared to 13.6v.
This has a huge effect on recharging while driving. Since you are simply aiming to mitigate the loads while driving there is less concern, but the lifeline wants to see 100% state of charge just as much as every other battery, and 13.6v, or whatever your voltage regulator is going to allwo when hot, for as long as you drive, is not going to come close. Even 14.7v would not, driving, but the solar has all day for amps to taper to 0.5% of capacity at absorption voltage, and that is the key.
NIce that the output stud was easily accessible from the inside, and that routing two, 4 awg cables(in split loom) under the body to the battery behind driver, was pretty straightforward. I ran a separate ground alongside the (+) as I try to avoid frame grounds, and it was not my money buying the copper.
I saw the rear bracket on that cs130. 1/8"+ thick steel. I did not see thinking that bending it out of the way for a cs144's extra thickness"? would be particurlarly easy, nor would removing that extra support on the backside of the alternator, seem to be wise course of action.
No idea about the 130 vs 144 mm diameter, I could not really see
I only got in as far as I needed to, and thankfully it was not very far. The cs130 size, seemed small to me. I think my Chrysler 50/120 is a wider diameter, and the expected, and seen, output numbers would seem to make it so.
My personal alternator would make me happier if it could handle 62 amps total at hot idle instead of 48 to 52, but I doubt I will expend any effort into improvement. Redlights ar enot that long and a couple hundred more rpm gime what I need.
I am on my 5th 'lifetime' alternator I bought at Kragen in 2004. Oreilley's replaced it without any paperwork, or cost, just hand them the old and they handed me a new Wilson remanufactured Alternator. I can swap them out in under 15 minutes.
Now, my AC compressor has simply been a pulley since 2005, but ......
can externally regulated alternators work in parallel from same voltage regulator? Different thread.
Regarding the solar panel(s) I think with your roof, if it were mine I would perhaps find a large 24v, 230 to 325 watt panel I would reinforce the corners, and install a diagonal across the bottom of the Panel's frame, and put on a strong hinge on one side. Have a way to tilt it 90degrees and hold it secure, while removing or returning ladder, lower and secure it into place. It beats worrying about partial shading, and MPPT is not as $$$ as compared to a decade ago.
In 2007 I spent over 730$, for a single 130 watt panel delivered. If I were making a new system for myself in a new van i would be all over the single huge wattage/size panel, and 24v+ capable MPPT charge controller
Regarding any solar wattage to Ah capacity ratio, I have 198 watts feeding 90Ah of battery. Soon it will be 298 watts, and I would prefer more, more solar wattage, not battery capacity.
With AGMs I would say got no less than 2:1 solar wattage to battery capacity, in a full time rig.
It is simply hard to have too much solar, and very easy to have way too little. Without being able to control the alternators outpu voltage, well i regularly see 3x more amp flow at 14.7 compared to 13.6v.
This has a huge effect on recharging while driving. Since you are simply aiming to mitigate the loads while driving there is less concern, but the lifeline wants to see 100% state of charge just as much as every other battery, and 13.6v, or whatever your voltage regulator is going to allwo when hot, for as long as you drive, is not going to come close. Even 14.7v would not, driving, but the solar has all day for amps to taper to 0.5% of capacity at absorption voltage, and that is the key.
