advice replacing small roof section of wood

Quote:
I can see using mesh tape with some sort of dry-wall style mud but using caulk and mesh tape doesn't make sense to me
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What part of that doesn't make sense ??

wow thanks everyone for the quick responses!

Well. I thought I always over-killed any job I've ever done but after reading some of these posts you guys make my work look like factory-built rv work!:).

From all the great tips here I think I will be doing the following..

Glue/screw board to roof rafter.
Put a slight chamfer on the butt ends.
Fill chamfer with rubber roof approved caulking.

Remember this is only about a 5-6" by 14" piece. This gets rid of all the rotted wood.

I will be posting all the pics from project when we are done, hopefully in the next few weeks.

Thanks again!
Ron

When you attach the new piece, apply adhesive (Titebond III or construction adhesive) to the butt ends of your patch that join the existing roof boards. When the adhesive is setting, fill the cracks and/or knife off the excess in the joint. No further tape or sealant is necessary.

I would cut until I saw good wood, then make a good perimeter 1/4" wider. Once you have good wood, I would treat with CPES. Cut a well fitting plug and treat with CPES. Install plug and fill seams with ALEX from home depot. You could cover seams with Eternabond for overkill. Then you are ready for roofing sheet and seal seams with Eternabond. You are good to go.

Jose

You are looking for eternabond tape.

I would cut 45 ends to the board instead of butting old and new at 90 degrees. I'd use thickened epoxy along the seams along with the screws, and then seal the wood with more layers of unthickened epoxy, then cover with eternabond.

But I like overkill.

Agree on checking rot for deeper than visible. I hate OSB too. Marine plywood is what should have been used. OSB is a dollar saving corner cutting device no matter what claims are believed by some.

Thank you all for the advice...

I guess I wasn't 100% clear explaining what I want to know.

I have access to two roof rafters which I will use to attach the new piece of wood with screws, so that part is not an issue. I need to know if I need to be concerned about the seam that will be created by butting two boards together. Over time the rubber roof laying over the seam seems like a bad idea. I was just going to use some sort of tape but wasn't sure what kind.

I see someone above mentioned using mesh tape and caulk. How exactly? I can see using mesh tape with some sort of dry-wall style mud but using caulk and mesh tape doesn't make sense to me.

Thanks,
Ron

I restored a log cabin with rot issues at one point. The rot often goes deeper than you might think. On logs that had deep rot I used CPES (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1268). Its a 2 part really stinky epoxy that seeps into the wood and stops all the rot in place. That treatment prepares the wood to accept epoxy/sawdust mix or some other product (Jamestown has this too).

Personally, I would remove the bulk of the rot. Then treat the edges with CPES. cut a new piece of OSB to loosely fill the area (leave 1/4 gap on all sides. Using foil tape secure the new OSB from the underside making sure to make the area fairly liquid tight. Mix up a bunch of epoxy with about 25% fine sawdust. Pour this mix around the fresh OSB and let it dry.

Before you put the new section in, maybe you could use pieces of wood to go under the edge of the existing panel. Glue them and slip them in and clamp and shoot will a staple gun. When they are dry you can lay the patch in and the edges will be supported. These supports would fit between the roof rafters.

I have used the loctite pl premium adhesive from the depot with good results. I would stay with the premium or sub floor type adhesives.

I used mesh tape with caulk the same way they didwhen they built the trailer.