Thanks Landy!
> It might also want 50% discharge cycle and 25+ amps applied until 14.4v is reached, then held until amps taper to 0.5% of capacity, before it will hold any higher resting voltage.
I did this, with the chassis battery, twice. On your recommendation! I didn't measure the voltage while charging, but I set the meanwell at 14.55v when disconnected from the battery, and charged until the battery was below 0.5 amps.
The chassis batt IS a Johnson Control. I bought it for reasons other than magic, as mentioned in the previous page :-).
As for the connections between the house batteries and the load, I used the same thing for all of them: bolted-on battery cables. The same cables for all. But the cables are old, and have some corrosion. My meanwell clips onto the bolts with (real) copper jumper cable clamps.
> If one is going to perform tests for comparision, one needs to eliminate as many variables as possible, and have the same starting and end points. No, this is not always possible or worth the effort. Tests without accounting for the variables in comparison, would merely point out a used battery not worthy of employing, if excessive resistance at the battery terminal itself from a crappy electrical connection, is not the reason for the perceived poor performance.
Yes. Given my limited time and access to the van, I was mainly just testing the house batteries to find out if any of them were ****. In setting up my electric, I want to know how many batteries I have.
I realize this is not very scientific. But I have a lot of limitations on my time and energy.
Tell me if I'm wrong, but the consensus seems to be that I should retest battery A, the one that got hot, and that the other three are good enough?
