Yup. Stand and watch a thermometer NOT go down for a long time when high temp wet and dry bulb readings are close. Water takes A LOT of energy to change temperature. And UNTIL it changes temperatures - loses heat and precipitates in the form of condensation the mercury ain't moving...
The action of a dehumidifier is to "overly chill" the air. Forcing vapor coalescence and then drops which fall. Drier air exiting the evaporator is mixed with air heated by the condenser exchange but it does not exhaust outside the room. The net process increases temperature slightly.
The object is to get that freakin' relatively humidity down out of the high sixties. Look at it objectively: Say there is a Delta T of thirty degrees between indoors and out. That's a lot. High Delta T means higher loss through structure walls, roof and glass. OK? Reducing the Delta T to twenty degrees means an enormous reduction in active thermal transmission. If I remember the lesson right the BTU loss reduction is logarithmic. How to be comfortable with a higher c or F. Maintain R/H from 25% to 40% (optimum).
I have seen incidence of ridiculous over cooling. Freezing movie theater temperatures in the sixties on a 105F day. My hygrometer fits in my pocket. Humidity was still in the upper sixties - talk about "unclear on the subject".
Eighty degree air cannot hold anywhere near as much moisture as 100F air. When I used to suffer nose bleeds, with 2% R/H winter air the figure was quoted for outside air temp of say 10F. At 70F inside temp the humidity was a flat zero and pennies.
If you are comfortable fine. That is the goal. If comfort seems hard to achieve and especially if discomfort comes with a high utility bill, it may be time to get a decent hygrometer and treat the cause not the symptoms.
