Forum Discussion
BFL13
Jan 03, 2018Explorer II
lawrosa wrote:It all works the way it is supposed to thank goodness, but more amps could be useful at times depending on the scenario.
I have not yet tried the trick with an inverter on the starting battery powering a battery charger on the house batts. That method is available if parked and the engine is idling and means no change to OEM set-up. But not possible while driving so upgrading the OEM set-up would be needed for more amps that way.
I have a similar issue I think but have not looked into mine too much.. I will do more in warmer weather..
Remeber my aux battery in my truck is really a house battery. Its there for a truck camper, yellow warning lights on roof, 7 pin connector ect.. At this time all it does is the 7 pin... Thats it..
So like what I think you are saying is that battery does not recharge well?
Thats what I think mine is doing...
With a dead aux battery when I start the truck, the starting batt gets 40 amps. And all it did was start the truck.. Testing the aux battery I only see10-15 amps.. IMO that battery should be getting more amps. Its 145 amp alt..
I was thinking its a flaky connection in the solenoid isolator, but I test the amps on the wire coming to the aux battery right from the starter..
Maybe a bad starter connection. I can test this by removing starter connection and moving it right to the alt pos block..
So I know what your saying that you want more amps, or think it should be getting more amps just like I been pondering all year... But I have too many projects at hand... ha ha... and its -3f here in NJ... ha ha...
No aux battery in our 2003 Chev that pulls the 5er. 7-pin 12v goes through 40 amp fuse in Stud 1 under hood fuse panel.
IMO you could just take out that aux battery and anything to do with it, and not miss it at all.
It is a shorter distance inside the Class C from starting battery to house batts than from truck battery to trailer batts via 7-pin.
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