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TUCQUALA's avatar
TUCQUALA
Explorer
May 01, 2015

ANOTHER D*** Solar Question!!!!

Just upgraded trailer to a new, much larger trailer (Timber Ridge 280RKS) which has a "huge" 10W Zamp solar panel. The panel is wired directly to the battery through a master switch and 30A breaker. It is not controlled by the disconnect sw.

Obviously, this panel is only for storage maintenance of the batteries, and a draw test shows almost .4 amps of draw on the batts from the many electronics in the trailer. These things are getting like cars with all the spiffy stuff!!

So, my plan is to add a 100-150 watt panel and parallel with the 10 watt. Think I can pull the wires down through the roof pass-thru that is installed and down through the front cap to the junction box under the front crossmember. Probably use 8 ga wire down to a PWM controller to be located in the bedroom and then to the batts.

Comments or condemnations??!!!

Gerry

PS: Can't edit my signature due to a long running problem with the preferences tab!!! Going on 5 weeks now, great IT around here!!!

47 Replies

  • According to the 12v wiring pdf from Outdoors RV, the wire from the 10W to the batts is 16 ga, don't think it would work for a much larger panel. The batts are max 3-4 ft from the possible controller location. The distribution center and wfco (!!!) is aboot 10ft from the batts and is connected with 6 ga wire.

    We mostly dry camp, boondock, and have a 2k Champion as needed. After spending what we did on this trailer, I'm trying to keep the add'l costs down to please the boss!! My idea is to provide some charging input to offset the normal parasitic draw, and add a few amps during the day in the woods.

    A lot of "get rid of the 10 watt", so I guess that the .6-.8 amps it can provide is meaningless!!! That would just leave a few holes in the roof that the brackets now occupy.
  • I would remove the 10w and install the 150 and use existing wire.
    Cut wire near the battery to add the controller.
  • Seems like a good plan if the bedroom is up front and the batts are out front. The controller should be closer to the batts for less line loss, but be out of the rain, while it is less important to be close to the array up on the roof or wherever you have your array (portable out on the ground?)

    #8 is a good gauge for array to controller in many cases, and could also be good for the controller to battery path depending on distance and expected amps on that path.
  • I have a 100 watt portable unit because I only boon dock 2 weeks a year. The rest of the time I am at RV parks. At home I am plugged into AC power. If you plan more than that you really need to get much more power than your 10 watts. 100 watts would be good for keeping your RV in storage. For serious solar you need to be looking at 30 to 60 amps. There are some serious solar RVers on the forum that will be able to help out. Don't mean to be critical of your 10 watt unit but that is typical about sales in todays world. Current times voltage gives you power of the unit. watts divided by voltage gives the charging current available on your unit. i.e 830 ma. or .83 amps Most cheapo battery trickle chargers will furnish 2 or 3 amps. JMHO. You need to decide how much you will be off the grid. If very little, like me, a 100 watt portable panel will work out. If you do lots of off grid camping a much larger system will be needed. Hopefully one of the solar guys will make some more suggestions.
  • TUCQUALA wrote:
    , my plan is to add a 100-150 watt panel and parallel with the 10 watt.

    Going on 5 weeks now, great IT around here!!!
    I'd dump the 10w. Not doing much of anything.

    Yeah, the IT is wonderful.
  • I'm sure others will chime in. If you want solar you will have to rip that out and basically start over. About .8 amp solar is a joke unless just for storage of your unit. Then pretty small.

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