Another fridge question

Modern refers are very efficient and often give a yearly power usage. As an example use 364kWh. For 1 day 364kWh/364 = 1000Wh for 1 day.

Per hour it's 1000Wh/24h = 42W. Assuming it cycles on 50% of the time it then draws 42/.50 = 84W while running.

For 120V AC operation that's 84/120 = 0.7A when running.

Using a multiplier of 11 for battery/inverter usage that's 0.7A*11 = 7.7A DC when running.

Also for battery/inverter usage it would use (for 1 day) 1000W/12.0V = 83AH from the batteries. For 2x GC2 batteries at 230AH that’s 83/230 = 36% discharge for just the batteries.

Actual power usage will vary depending upon usage and ambient temperatures

Also some modern refers use variable speed motors and have very little additional start up amp surge.

Dutch’s Haier HA10TG31SB refer above is rated at 330kWh and the 2A and 6A label may suggest a worst case scenario.

Basically with a A/C, TV, lights and refer you should be OK on 30A as a typical 10 cu ft refer AC draw is 1-2A possibly with a higher startup surge.

Mine runs on a 1000 watt PSW with no problems

Btw, there is a new breed: inverter refrigerators 11 cu.ft LG. It adjusts the compressor speed instead of cycling more (or less).

I think their start-up current should not be THAT high. Does anybody have any measurements?

Thanks all,

Dutch, thanks, that is the label I will look for on whatever fridge I buy. Just couldn't find that on any website specs.

I only plan to run the fridge on shore power. For boondocking, a really good cooler will work fine since I don't have solar or a generator.

“Does anyone have any concrete information about how many amps a mid size fridge draws while running, and during startup?”

At 12 or 120 volts? I believe Dutch is right at 2 running amps at 120 volts but that’s 20 amps at 12 volts plus whatever it costs to convert 12 to 120.

ours was about 1 amp running around 8amps momentary startup

Tinstart, amps are different when speaking of 120V or 12V system.

Dometic draws 3 amps @120V = 30 amps @12V. This is 360W.

Expect about 150-200W from small residential fridge. Much better than 360W of Dometic in electrical mode, but still too high to run it on a battery. Without hookups or big solar you are facing long hours on generator.

It jumps to 1500-2000W during start-up, so your inverter (or generator) should have at least 1500W.

(I see that the one by Dutch is not too "jumpy" on start-up, but still 1000W with inverter losses).

On 30A hookup this won't be a problem, but it "might" trip the breaker if you are running roof top air on full power at the same time.

From the label on our 10.1 cu ft residential fridge:

Go with 300 watts to run and 3.7 times that to start and you won't go wrong.