Forum Discussion
ctilsie242
Mar 15, 2018Explorer II
Call me old, but furnaces in millions of houses have worked for decades without needing computer control boards or electronic thermostats. The good old fashioned pilot light and thermocouple has kept gas appliances from going up in fireballs for a long time. My water heater and furnace do not have any control boards either.
Having worked at IoT companies, and done IT for 25 years, I trust a mechanical device far more than an electronic controller, especially with the slipshod way most stuff is programmed these days ("It builds, ship it!) If an electronic gas controller messes up and blows up my rig, I get told that I agreed to the software's EULA by using it, so can't sue them. A mechanical controller likely has seen years, if not decades of testing, so it won't be absolute garbage.
Take my current rig's thermostat for example. It is electronic. If the temperature in the rig is over 100 degrees, it will not turn on the A/C compressor. I have to use an ice pack to get it to 99 degrees so it will turn that on. A mechanical, bimetallic spring thermostat would never have this problem.
What I'm looking for is as simple a LP gas fridge as possible, where the only electricity is used for the light, or perhaps a 110 volt subsystem when on shore power. This likely will be used for a class "B" van build. This way, I can shut off the battery while gone, and know my stuff will continue to be cold.
Having worked at IoT companies, and done IT for 25 years, I trust a mechanical device far more than an electronic controller, especially with the slipshod way most stuff is programmed these days ("It builds, ship it!) If an electronic gas controller messes up and blows up my rig, I get told that I agreed to the software's EULA by using it, so can't sue them. A mechanical controller likely has seen years, if not decades of testing, so it won't be absolute garbage.
Take my current rig's thermostat for example. It is electronic. If the temperature in the rig is over 100 degrees, it will not turn on the A/C compressor. I have to use an ice pack to get it to 99 degrees so it will turn that on. A mechanical, bimetallic spring thermostat would never have this problem.
What I'm looking for is as simple a LP gas fridge as possible, where the only electricity is used for the light, or perhaps a 110 volt subsystem when on shore power. This likely will be used for a class "B" van build. This way, I can shut off the battery while gone, and know my stuff will continue to be cold.
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