After having to take last year and this spring and summer off, want to do a couple of dry camping trips this fall - No. CA and NV, So. OR. Currently have the 84 AH Group 24 the used RV dealer put in. Have had issues in the past with the heater fan draining the battery too far when fall camping (and, as a result, the battery is probably shot).We do not have and won't be getting an inverter. Fridge is 2 way so no 12V there. We're changing interior lights over to LED as they blow.Decided on two Lifeline GPL-4CT 6V batteries (220 AH).Leaning towards AM Solar's budget setup for 210 watts (105 x 2). Will be mounting flat.Also leaning towards a Victron monitor over the TriMetric. Mainly because it comes with shunt and cables making it effectively cheaper, partly because it does not look like something I made in HS electronics.Not planning on a generator unless we decide to use AC some season down the road.So, anything glaringly wrong with this path? Any suggestions?First investment in the trailer since buying it in 2008!-CJ

Do you need AGM batteries? If you had 70+ amps charging from generator power they certainly have an advantage. With about 10 amps from solar there is not really much advantage besides lower maintenance.I would tend to save the AGM battery money to get more battery capacity or immediately replace all lamps with LED.I kinda feel the same way with the battery monitor. Although it will have benefit of telling you if you need to conserve power or ok to live it up. Can't really help tell when to start the generator or how long to run it. The money spent on more battery, solar or LEDs would create actual benefit to keeping the furnace running. Simple voltmeter is close enough for what you are doing and might even be included on the solar controller.

@smkettner,1. Someone in the past moved the battery from the two battery tray to the floor of the front compartment. I suspect this was for access as in the tray it is a royal pain to get to the cells for filling. I'm going back to the tray for two batteries and want the real estate on the floor back. Kinda need low maintenance.2. Budget controller does not have a volt meter but I would consider a simple voltmeter and state-of-charge chart in lieu of a monitor. That would save enough for a bunch of LED bulbs. Read most of the threads in a search for "battery monitor" and kind of got numb.Thanks,- CJ

You getting a budget solar, but getting lifeline batteries ? Money not well spent IMO.

Lifeline batteries PDF recommends high bulk rates, the higher the better but no more than 14.4v unless a "conditioning" cycle is required, for which they have a prescribed procedure.Get a Solar controller which can do this procedure, and preferably more solar too unless you are regularly using higher amp charging sources when heavily depleted.

@RJsfishin,OK, suggestions, then?I said "Leaning towards..." AMs fancier kits have tilting mounts I don't want. No ladder on my trailer and even if there was it would be at the wrong end, so no hopping on the roof at each site.And the controller is a 20 amp MorningStar SunSaver. Not sure I need more.But, here to learn.- CJ

Any glaring flaws with this battery and system upgrade?

landyacht318
Explorer
Aug 25, 2014
Lifeline batteries PDF recommends high bulk rates, the higher the better but no more than 14.4v unless a "conditioning" cycle is required, for which they have a prescribed procedure.

Get a Solar controller which can do this procedure, and preferably more solar too unless you are regularly using higher amp charging sources when heavily depleted.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Aug 25, 2014
You getting a budget solar, but getting lifeline batteries ? Money not well spent IMO.
BaddogLT
Explorer
Aug 25, 2014
@smkettner,

1. Someone in the past moved the battery from the two battery tray to the floor of the front compartment. I suspect this was for access as in the tray it is a royal pain to get to the cells for filling. I'm going back to the tray for two batteries and want the real estate on the floor back. Kinda need low maintenance.

2. Budget controller does not have a volt meter but I would consider a simple voltmeter and state-of-charge chart in lieu of a monitor. That would save enough for a bunch of LED bulbs. Read most of the threads in a search for "battery monitor" and kind of got numb.

Thanks,

- CJ
time2roll
Nomad
Aug 25, 2014
Do you need AGM batteries? If you had 70+ amps charging from generator power they certainly have an advantage. With about 10 amps from solar there is not really much advantage besides lower maintenance.

I would tend to save the AGM battery money to get more battery capacity or immediately replace all lamps with LED.

I kinda feel the same way with the battery monitor. Although it will have benefit of telling you if you need to conserve power or ok to live it up. Can't really help tell when to start the generator or how long to run it. The money spent on more battery, solar or LEDs would create actual benefit to keeping the furnace running. Simple voltmeter is close enough for what you are doing and might even be included on the solar controller.

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Any glaring flaws with this battery and system upgrade?

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