Forum Discussion
- GordonThreeExplorerAnd you'd trust the seals and membrane bypass to handle non potable water safely? Pretty much every filter out there, even the ones that claim to save you from the sky falling disclaim their use on non potable sources.
A seal with a few micron permeability or defects in the housing itself will easily let bugs slip through. - TechWriterExplorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
- R/O systems are a joke unless pressure is boosted to at least 100 psi and a real membrane filter is used
Maybe for a whole house system, but for an RV, an under-the-sink unit like this or one with a boost pump works just fine with a lot less than 100 psi. - TechWriterExplorer
Traveler7 wrote:
Here is one I am considering-
SafH2OUV Model 212
It's a 2 gpm unit. That's pretty slow flow. - MEXICOWANDERERExplorer
- Mexico is the land of the vertical learning curve when it comes to water filtration and treatment
- A mesh-type primary filter stops a lot of junk in it's tracks
- I use a ROTOPLAST one micron disposable spin on. It absolutely stops giardia and amoebas
- Virus is killed with UV
- But the water needs to be thoroughly irradiated
- Time versus intensity
- Look it up on GOOGLE and Wikipedia
- R/O systems are a joke unless pressure is boosted to at least 100 psi and a real membrane filter is used
- The two most important points are only a good R/O system will remove excess minerals. Only a good R/O system will substantially reduce levels of heavy metals - the type that produce three-eyed grandchildren.
- Traveler7ExplorerHere is one I am considering-
SafH2OUV Model 212
It is smaller than some since I have a 'B' and I am trying to keep as much storage space as possible. I will use a pre-filter when filling the tank and before the water pump to get most sediment and river crud from river water. - down_homeExplorer III don't have UV system.They can be installed after already existing filters or before.
They do work and the bulbs do need to be replaced.
From looking into it on the net a few years ago some systems use a convenient and not too expensive to replace bulb.
If you have good electric with no surges etc they should last a long time. Vibration may have a signifigant impact on filament life, Perhaps.
On our last trip we had to change filters several times as I only used one filter.
Next trip will be with two with the expensive good blue filter from CW and then a five micron after it. The one micron stopped up too many times by itself.
I haven't done it yet but like the old whole house filter we hada on our well, it killed all the nasties and caught most sediment from already very clean water. Uses a very big 10 inch filter only 25icros though. On line a confusion of filters as to which is best. If I can find a five micron in that big filter, won't have to change the filter for a long time. The GE version has a remote sensor to let you know when it needs changing but you can't see the filter.
Finding a place to mount it in the Mh being so large seems problem for me.
Perhaps I can figure it out before long. And then the UV would be a great investment in health after it. - TechWriterExplorer
greenrvgreen wrote:
Yes, we're always told to use a coarse sediment filter, but they're not very cleanable and they're almost as expensive as an actual ceramic filter, which is EASILY cleaned with a brillo pad and ten extra seconds, and will outlast the sediment filter by a factor of DECADES.
Pleated sediment filters are easy to clean. I do it all the time.
Nevertheless, I'll give a ceramic a try next year. We use large Big Blue canisters so a ceramic filter is expensive as opposed to a pleated filter. The flow rate for this Big Blue ceramic is very good -- 6 gpm @ 60 psi.
However, the Doulton ceramics for 'standard'-sized canisters (that almost all RVers use) all seem to have really slow flow rates.greenrvgreen wrote:
I bought a high-end sterilight 120v and it cooked my water like it thought I was going to make coffee.
"Make coffee"? Yeah, right. For a smart guy, you didn't know that UV sterilizers actually heat water?greenrvgreen wrote:
Factors like dwell time ought to give sentient users the shivers. Who would want to rely soley on a device that comes with built-in excuses?
Dwell time just means that amount of time water is exposed to UV light. So a 3 gpm UV system can't have water going though the system more than 3 gpm. Otherwise, the system won't work. - greenrvgreenExplorerOnce again a certain esteemed forum member climbs a mountain of nonsense and dares anyone to knock him off of it.
Yes, we're always told to use a coarse sediment filter, but they're not very cleanable and they're almost as expensive as an actual ceramic filter, which is EASILY cleaned with a brillo pad and ten extra seconds, and will outlast the sediment filter by a factor of DECADES.
I bought a high-end sterilight 120v and it cooked my water like it thought I was going to make coffee. I'd be more interested in a UVc unit that could be threaded into a 3/4 inch port in the water tank, where I could periodically blast any critters treading water in there.
Factors like dwell time ought to give sentient users the shivers. Who would want to rely soley on a device that comes with built-in excuses? - TechWriterExplorer
Traveler7 wrote:
I have used a backpacking UV filter and it worked really well AFAIK....my plan with this is to go through a 5 micron filter with charcoal first and then a pass through the UV filter.
I have a 120V Sterilight UV sterilizer as part of my water filtration system. Sterilight (now called Viqua) makes a good unit.
If you go with a 12V system, I suggest you buy one that has at least a 5 gpm dwell time to insure your UV works.
The 5 micron sediment filter is a good choice as it's "cleanable" as opposed to the 1 micron or smaller filters. - greenrvgreenExplorerInstead of the 5 micron pre-filter I suggest a GAC/ceramic combo. You can find them out there. Charcoal (GAC) by itself will do a better job as a pre-filter, and 5 microns isn't going to confuse ANY pathogens.
Check out rvwaterfilters.com
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