attaching solar panels
I was wondering if I should use well nuts or just wood screws to attach the panels to the roof, of course a healthy amount of Dicor. I was going to use 1" stainless wood screws.
Forum Discussion
Roy, it will be cheaper to get a regular square aluminum bar 1.5 or 2" and another short bar underneath - near gutter. Something like SMK did. Result will be the same.
Holes - not a big deal. There are more people who installed panels drilling holes in the middle of the roof than any other method. You already have dozens holes there.
Walking - when I walk on 3/4" particle board, I'm trying to move on all four and not to step between the rafters. Every time when I do step in between, I can feel it flexing. I'm under 170 lbs.
Screws - the thread on wood screw is coarser than on sheet metal screw, a better grip in soft particle board but I still don't trust it. Especially with big 24V panels and/or if tilting is in plans. Each one of my mounting brackets has at least 2 screws in the rafter, and then some in just particle board. Screws need to be a) stainless, b) fully threaded and c) with pan or hex head. It was easier to find sheet metal screws to these specs than wood screws.
One tip - don't pre-drill the hole if you are not hitting the rafter. Or use the smallest bit you have. Normally the size of pilot hole in "soft wood" for screw #10 is 1/8, but particle board is softer than any soft wood.
Holes - not a big deal. There are more people who installed panels drilling holes in the middle of the roof than any other method. You already have dozens holes there.
Walking - when I walk on 3/4" particle board, I'm trying to move on all four and not to step between the rafters. Every time when I do step in between, I can feel it flexing. I'm under 170 lbs.
Screws - the thread on wood screw is coarser than on sheet metal screw, a better grip in soft particle board but I still don't trust it. Especially with big 24V panels and/or if tilting is in plans. Each one of my mounting brackets has at least 2 screws in the rafter, and then some in just particle board. Screws need to be a) stainless, b) fully threaded and c) with pan or hex head. It was easier to find sheet metal screws to these specs than wood screws.
One tip - don't pre-drill the hole if you are not hitting the rafter. Or use the smallest bit you have. Normally the size of pilot hole in "soft wood" for screw #10 is 1/8, but particle board is softer than any soft wood.
