attaching solar panels
I was wondering if I should use well nuts or just wood screws to attach the panels to the roof, of course a healthy amount of Dicor. I was going to use 1" stainless wood screws.
Forum Discussion
- Not sure I understand about flat bar. Are you attaching brackets to the frame side? With 1" square tubing and 1" brackets on top of it?
Whatever it is, I would use a wider footprint, with 1.5" or 2" angle for brackets. With 2" brackets placed lengthwise, with panel lengthwise relatively to trailer, you won't need any flat bar or square tubing. Almot wrote:
Most people use #10 screws. Not #12.
6 brackets per one 255W panel should be enough. If you are making your own brackets, cut them 5-6" long so the load will be distributed.
OEM mounting holes in the bottom of the frames are for permanent mounting on the shore homes, and assume some racking underneath, like rectangular tubing etc. If you use Z-brackets on those holes without racking, it will be difficult to remove the panel later unless brackets are either very tall or are 2-part.
made my own brackets from 1" aluminum angle about 3 1/2" and using a 1" flat bar between them to raise them up a bit and make for easy removal if needed.- Most people use #10 screws. Not #12.
6 brackets per one 255W panel should be enough. If you are making your own brackets, cut them 5-6" long so the load will be distributed.
OEM mounting holes in the bottom of the frames are for permanent mounting on the shore homes, and assume some racking underneath, like rectangular tubing etc. If you use Z-brackets on those holes without racking, it will be difficult to remove the panel later unless brackets are either very tall or are 2-part. - I installed 4x100W Renogy panels a few months ago. Use 1/2 inch well nuts. Worked like a champ and the Montana will disintegrate before these things let go.
- OK, I am installing 2-255W panels they are about 39" x 60" and they will have 6 brackets on each with 2 screws in each bracket I purchased #12 1 1/4" SS screws and will use Dicor or similar product this is about wood screws or well nuts and they will be screwed down because it would be stupid not to!
- No respectable installer will put 35-45 lbs panel onto EPDM roof attached with adhesive only. There are occasional dimwits though.
Small 100-160W panel that is neither lifted few inches (to clear protruding vents, A/C shade etc), nor tilted, should be fine on 4 brackets, 2 #10 screws per bracket.
It is recommended to have at least 0.5" clearance between the panel frame and roof, for heat dissipation.
Keep in mind that so called flat panel should still have few degrees slope to drain water, snow and debris. This slope occurs naturally when conforming to the roof slope, and is not the same as "tilted" panel. RJsfishin wrote:
The professional installers send these big panels out w/ adheasive only, no screws, and you worrying about finding rafters ? There is no good reason for that, and can cause a lot of grief.
Done properly, 2 # 10 screws in each bracket, along w/ the Dicor, it ain't goin anywhere !
X2- The professional installers send these big panels out w/ adheasive only, no screws, and you worrying about finding rafters ? There is no good reason for that, and can cause a lot of grief.
Done properly, 2 # 10 screws in each bracket, along w/ the Dicor, it ain't goin anywhere ! - Yes, with condensation on EPDM roof - like frost melting or morning dew, the rafters can be seen sometimes. Where I was installing it, there was no frost but plenty of dew in the morning.
- Sometimes a good morning frost can help you locate the framing, especially on the sidewalls but they might also show up on the roof. Get out there as the sun comes up before the frost melts. Play with temps inside the 5er to improve contrast.
