Need some advice. I am new to Atwood Water Heaters (gas/electric model - GC6AA-10E). I have had 3 other RVs but they all had suburban water heaters and the most recent one was gas only (for 10 years...) The Water heater works fine on gas. I think the electric heating element might have gotten smoked but not 100% sure. What other things do I need to check before I get to that? From the research I have done on this site and others, I don't find too much on the electric side. Almost everyone asks questions on the gas portion. Historically, if it is going to be weeks between use, I drain the WH. I think someone turned on the WH by accident (maybe me) when we were setting up. The WH electric switch is just above my light switch in the panel. I always drained the Suburban WH to keep the anode rod from eating away and to keep the smell away. Worked for years but it was gas only and I didn't worry about an electric element... I might not continue to drain it so often once I get it fixed. Anyway: 2 questions: 1) what other things do I check before concluding it is the element (and how do I know that for sure?) and 2) how the heck do you change it if I need to? Is it really on the backside of the tank? Thank you in advance for your advice!

Its on the backside of the tank under a plastic cover you need to ohm it and see if its smoked

IF electric element was turned on w/o water in WH tank then YES it is burnt out.They are submersed elements...need water to absorb heat generated.Tests: 12V DC VoltageWith electric switch ONShould have 12V DC on WHITE wire to circuit board (top connector)Should have 12V DC on BROWN wires from circuit board (bottom connector) and to circuit board (top connector) ---thru thermal fuse & t-statShould have 12V DC on YELLOW wire from circuit board (bottom connector)Should have MILIVOLT signal on RED wire from circuit board to/thru ECO and to gas valve solenoid (bottom connector)Other tests: 120V AC....switch OFFCheck for continuity between the Black and White wire terminals6 point 1 1/2" socket to R&R element.....tank empty!No Continuity...element BADCheck for continuity between White wire terminal and element flange.IF you measure continuity then element is BAD120V AC....switch ONBackside of water heater under protective cover 12V DC on Yellow wire to 'relay'120V AC on BLACK wire to element-----WHITE wire to NEUTRAL Buss in Main AC Panel

Old-Biscuit wrote:IF electric element was turned on w/o water in WH tank then YES it is burnt out.They are submersed elements...need water to absorb heat generated.Tests: 12V DC VoltageWith electric switch ONShould have 12V DC on WHITE wire to circuit board (top connector)Should have 12V DC on BROWN wires from circuit board (bottom connector) and to circuit board (top connector) ---thru thermal fuse & t-statShould have 12V DC on YELLOW wire from circuit board (bottom connector)Should have MILIVOLT signal on RED wire from circuit board to/thru ECO and to gas valve solenoid (bottom connector)Other tests: 120V AC....switch OFFCheck for continuity between the Black and White wire terminals6 point 1 1/2" socket to R&R element.....tank empty!No Continuity...element BADCheck for continuity between White wire terminal and element flange.IF you measure continuity then element is BAD120V AC....switch ONBackside of water heater under protective cover 12V DC on Yellow wire to 'relay'120V AC on BLACK wire to element-----WHITE wire to NEUTRAL Buss in Main AC PanelShow off :B

Old-Biscuit, thanks for this much needed info, mine also has gone OOS on the electric side. I also have a second issue, in that when using the water heater on gas, when I open any hot water tap inside my coach and run hot water, the water heater makes a loud whining noise. Any idea if this is related to the electrical issue, or do I have two issues? Thx, Jeff

Thanks for all the great information. What do I have to do to get to the backside of the Atwood should I have to replace the element? Completely pull the unit out? Any instructions on that?Thanks again!

Atwood 6 gallon Water Heater - Not working on Electric..

18 Replies

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Mar 15, 2017
Tighten ALL wire terminals in AC Power Panel and in DC Dist Panel

Check battery posts clean/tight and ground wire to frame clean/tight
westend
Explorer
Mar 15, 2017
It seems you have a wiring/connector/switch issue. I'd suggest to clean up all the connections as a start.

Anytime I'm worried about a fuse/pin/spade connection being oxidized or dirty, I break out a spray can of Caig Deoxit. A drop or two and working the connection renews the metal surfaces. Deoxit is available at Guitar Center and some Radio Shack outlets. It's also sold online. I haven't found a deoxidizing cleaner that works as well as Deoxit. Typical electronics cleaners don't work nearly as well.
gillman
Explorer
Mar 15, 2017
Bumping this question. Anyone have thoughts on my intermittent electrical issue?

Thanks much!
gillman
Explorer
Mar 13, 2017
Ok, need some more advice...

I got the 5th Wheel out this weekend - plugged it in and hooked up to water (& purged the air from the lines / tank).

I turned on the Electric portion of the water heater as I needed to leave for a few hours. I fully expected cold water when I returned but low-and-behold, we had HOT water upon return. So the good news is that it is not the Heating Element (which looked like a pain to replace) but now it appears I have an intermittent issue which can be worse as I don't know when it will happen again.

I am wondering if I have a breaker /Fuse panel issue because I also have an intermittent issue with the lights in my cargo area under the 5th Wheel (bedroom). Sometimes, the 12v lights work and sometimes they don't. The last time we were out camping I could mess with the 12v fuse for that area and they would start working again but it was never blown. (just the red LED on looking like it had an issue). I would pull it and reset it and it would work (red LED off again).

Maybe I need to pull the entire panel and see if there is an obvious issue ???

Any thoughts? Thanks again in advance for your advice!
gillman
Explorer
Mar 07, 2017
Old-Biscuit: Thank you! Good info!
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Mar 07, 2017
2004 ---2014
IF Atwood it wouldn't have mattered

10E version is the latest design change......combined circuit board controls using DC Voltage and one set of T-stat/ECO

6 gallon 10E version and 10 gallon 4E version wiring diagram
(follow written circuit in my first post)
gillman
Explorer
Mar 06, 2017
Sorry, I noticed I had a signature about my former 2004 Starcraft Antiqua (sure loved that camper!). We now have a 2014 Grand Design Reflection 5th Wheel with the Atwood Water Heater. The Antiqua had the Suburban WH.

I updated my signature and pic.
j-d
Explorer II
Mar 06, 2017
I don't know about an Atwood with a logic board for Direct Spark Ignition, but our Suburban, and the older Atwood we had with 120 VAC element on the back side, it was like two water heaters sharing a common tank, pressure safety valve, and plumbing. Control of the LPG heating and the 120 VAC heating was entirely independent.

Might need a wiring diagram to see how the 120 VAC side is controlled on DSI Atwood models. Chris Bryant's website (bryantrv.com) has most of the service manuals for browse or download.
j-d
Explorer II
Mar 06, 2017
Chris Bryant wrote:
In a 2004, you may have a model with separate 120 volt thermostat and eco located on the back of the unit.

We had an Atwood that was like that, and there happened to be an access cover in the closet that backed up to the inboard side of the water heater.

Chris gave me a good tip awhile ago when the electric side of our Suburban wasn't working: Having a "hot" 120 VAC Black Wire INTO the water heater, also requires a complete circuit, through the "neutral" White Wire, back to the breaker panel. After Chris said that, I found 120 VAC on BOTH heater element terminals. This was because of no neutral. I traced to a junction box and found the cheesy push-down terminals RV builders use, had failed on the Neutral side. I make new and better connections, back in business.

I recently read where an RV water heater can run "dry" 20 minutes before the element burns out. I have no plan to test that.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Mar 06, 2017
Chris Bryant wrote:
In a 2004, you may have a model with separate 120 volt thermostat and eco located on the back of the unit.

Not with a GC6AA-10E model that OP has.

If it was a lower 'version' then a 10E----yes

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Atwood 6 gallon Water Heater - Not working on Electric..

18 Replies

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