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gillman's avatar
gillman
Explorer
Mar 06, 2017

Atwood 6 gallon Water Heater - Not working on Electric..

Need some advice. I am new to Atwood Water Heaters (gas/electric model - GC6AA-10E). I have had 3 other RVs but they all had suburban water heaters and the most recent one was gas only (for 10 years...)

The Water heater works fine on gas. I think the electric heating element might have gotten smoked but not 100% sure. What other things do I need to check before I get to that? From the research I have done on this site and others, I don't find too much on the electric side. Almost everyone asks questions on the gas portion.

Historically, if it is going to be weeks between use, I drain the WH. I think someone turned on the WH by accident (maybe me) when we were setting up. The WH electric switch is just above my light switch in the panel.

I always drained the Suburban WH to keep the anode rod from eating away and to keep the smell away. Worked for years but it was gas only and I didn't worry about an electric element... I might not continue to drain it so often once I get it fixed.

Anyway: 2 questions: 1) what other things do I check before concluding it is the element (and how do I know that for sure?) and 2) how the heck do you change it if I need to? Is it really on the backside of the tank?

Thank you in advance for your advice!
  • In a 2004, you may have a model with separate 120 volt thermostat and eco located on the back of the unit.
  • gillman wrote:
    Thanks for all the great information. What do I have to do to get to the backside of the Atwood should I have to replace the element? Completely pull the unit out? Any instructions on that?

    Thanks again!
    if accessible from a cabinet its a plastic cover with two studs holding it on undo the nuts remove the cover everything is accessible if no way to get to the back through a cabinet then yes you have to pul the entire unit
  • janstey58 wrote:
    Old-Biscuit, thanks for this much needed info, mine also has gone OOS on the electric side. I also have a second issue, in that when using the water heater on gas, when I open any hot water tap inside my coach and run hot water, the water heater makes a loud whining noise. Any idea if this is related to the electrical issue, or do I have two issues? Thx, Jeff

    The whistling is the check valves are bad you need to replace them.they are the water inlet and outlet nipoles or you can knock the check part out and have straight nipples if you never winterize the unit
  • Thanks for all the great information. What do I have to do to get to the backside of the Atwood should I have to replace the element? Completely pull the unit out? Any instructions on that?

    Thanks again!
  • Old-Biscuit, thanks for this much needed info, mine also has gone OOS on the electric side. I also have a second issue, in that when using the water heater on gas, when I open any hot water tap inside my coach and run hot water, the water heater makes a loud whining noise. Any idea if this is related to the electrical issue, or do I have two issues? Thx, Jeff
  • Old-Biscuit wrote:
    IF electric element was turned on w/o water in WH tank then YES it is burnt out.
    They are submersed elements...need water to absorb heat generated.

    Tests: 12V DC Voltage
    With electric switch ON
    Should have 12V DC on WHITE wire to circuit board (top connector)
    Should have 12V DC on BROWN wires from circuit board (bottom connector) and to circuit board (top connector) ---thru thermal fuse & t-stat
    Should have 12V DC on YELLOW wire from circuit board (bottom connector)
    Should have MILIVOLT signal on RED wire from circuit board to/thru ECO and to gas valve solenoid (bottom connector)

    Other tests: 120V AC....switch OFF
    Check for continuity between the Black and White wire terminals

    6 point 1 1/2" socket to R&R element.....tank empty!
    No Continuity...element BAD
    Check for continuity between White wire terminal and element flange.
    IF you measure continuity then element is BAD


    120V AC....switch ON
    Backside of water heater under protective cover 12V DC on Yellow wire to 'relay'
    120V AC on BLACK wire to element-----WHITE wire to NEUTRAL Buss in Main AC Panel

    Show off :B
  • IF electric element was turned on w/o water in WH tank then YES it is burnt out.
    They are submersed elements...need water to absorb heat generated.

    Tests: 12V DC Voltage
    With electric switch ON
    Should have 12V DC on WHITE wire to circuit board (top connector)
    Should have 12V DC on BROWN wires from circuit board (bottom connector) and to circuit board (top connector) ---thru thermal fuse & t-stat
    Should have 12V DC on YELLOW wire from circuit board (bottom connector)
    Should have MILIVOLT signal on RED wire from circuit board to/thru ECO and to gas valve solenoid (bottom connector)

    Other tests: 120V AC....switch OFF
    Check for continuity between the Black and White wire terminals

    6 point 1 1/2" socket to R&R element.....tank empty!
    No Continuity...element BAD
    Check for continuity between White wire terminal and element flange.
    IF you measure continuity then element is BAD


    120V AC....switch ON
    Backside of water heater under protective cover 12V DC on Yellow wire to 'relay'
    120V AC on BLACK wire to element-----WHITE wire to NEUTRAL Buss in Main AC Panel
  • Its on the backside of the tank under a plastic cover you need to ohm it and see if its smoked