Forum Discussion
Chris_Bryant
Mar 18, 2016Explorer II
OregonTravelers wrote:Chris Bryant wrote:OregonTravelers wrote:
OK Chris. The dead horse has been whipped. Finally had the blower motor checked. The motor draws 7 amps. Exactly what it is rated to draw. Furnace still cycling on and off.
OK- follow along. If it is drawing 7 amps, and the 15 amp breaker is tripping, the breaker is bad- likely cutting voltage through it. Replace it.
This is why you test things, rather than guess and throw parts.
On edit- you don't even have to buy a part to check this- just pull the leads off the breaker and hook a 15 amp blade fuse in place- the connectors will fit fine.
OK, but please explain to me how the circuit breaker causes the furnace to cycle on and off? The furnace starts, heats to the temperature on the thermostat, then furnace shut of and the fan continues to run for a short while, then everything stops. After a few seconds the fan starts, then the furnace starts and runs for a few seconds. Then the furnace shuts down, the fan runs for a few more seconds then everything turns off. Then the cycle starts all over again. This cycling happens three or four times and then the circuit breaker trips.
Don't understand how the circuit breaker would cause this.
Explain please.
The other issue is that the wires are soldered on to the circuit breaker.
Carl
Because the breaker is defective, the voltage is cut going through it- it is a high resistance circuit. Once you have less than optimal voltage feeding the system, all kinds of things happen- like the time delay relay acting funky.
Now it could be the time delay relay itself- why I suggest replacing the circuit breaker with a fuse.
However, if the breaker is soldered in the system, it has been heavily modified, as this was never done at the factory. In this case, all bets are off.
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