atwood GHC6A-10E water heater

RLS7201 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

RLS7201 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
To those that feel you can weld a Atwood tank. Usually the "burst" is so extreme, that to remove the water heater from the RV, you have to destroy the Styrofoam Insulator blocks. Once welded, you then have to find new Insulator blocks. I don't know if anybody sells just the Insulator styrofoam blocks. Also a New replacement comes with the 2 round trim rings that secures the inner tank to the metal front. I also don't know where you can get those rings without buying a replacement tank. It is better to just buy the replacement tank assbly. Doug

Doug, the rings are still out there.

Richard

IF you have access to the back of the water heater you could possibly cut out the Styrofoam. BUT, most installations give no real access inside the RV to cut it out. Just enough access to disconnect the water lines. When you remove a burst water heater and you have not had access to the strofoam, the burst part of the inner tank protrudes up and out and will push the styrofoam up and cause the styrofoam to stop the W/H from pulling out of the mount hole. Since you are usually replacing the Inner tank and the new tank comes with Styrofoam and mount rings, you don't care that you have to manhandle and destroy the styrofoam when removing. You sometimes have to use a pry bar to get the W/H out once you have moved it a few inches. I would think the cost of welding the Aluminum tank would kind of negate the cost to a replacement tank that has all the parts included. Doug



Do you know if they sell the styrofoam? Doug

Styrofoam insulation

I wonder if one could remove the insulation, very carefully, with a handy knife and glue it back together?
I can appreciate your position of time and money but DIYs are not paying an hourly rate for their own time........

Richard