Atwood heater problem

With our 1991 we got last year, the trouble was the little vent hole that has its own little cover in the outside door to the water heater was closed too tight. Not enough air. Opening that little cover making the vent hole bigger solved the problem. Had to get tough with it and break it open, because it was jammed shut.

Test for that by leaving the outside door hanging open. If it all works then, and not when it is closed, then it is that vent hole.

First off.....
Atwood made a lot of different models
Some gas only....pilot manual light
Some gas only...pilot with reigntor
Some gas only....electronic ignition
Some gas /electic with separate controls
Some gs/electric combined controls \\

Etc ETc

Which one do YOU have ??? What year/model is it??

Flame proving is most likely the issue. Flame lights and must prove it lit.
Means/Methods vary

Old-Biscuit wrote:
First off.....
Atwood made a lot of different models
Some gas only....pilot manual light
Some gas only...pilot with reigntor
Some gas only....electronic ignition
Some gas /electic with separate controls
Some gs/electric combined controls \\

Etc ETc

Which one do YOU have ??? What year/model is it??

Flame proving is most likely the issue. Flame lights and must prove it lit.
Means/Methods vary

its a 1999 model #G6A-8E with electronic ignition

That model uses the spark electrode for return path of flame signal (Flame generates milliamp signal thru rectification---which proves flame is lit)

No return signal circuit board shuts down DC to gas valve so raw fuel does not accumulate in combustion chamber

Spark electrode MUST be engulfed in flame when it lights off
Spark electrode must be free of soot/carbon build up.....clean with emery cloth
Spark electrode high voltage wire connection must be clean/tight
Spark electrode ceramic insulator can not be cracked....ground tracking
Spark electrode assembly screw must be clean/tight ------ground source for rod
Spark electrode gap 1/8"

Old Biscuit, You are incredible, Thank You

Old-Biscuit wrote:
That model uses the spark electrode for return path of flame signal (Flame generates milliamp signal thru rectification---which proves flame is lit)

No return signal circuit board shuts down DC to gas valve so raw fuel does not accumulate in combustion chamber

Spark electrode MUST be engulfed in flame when it lights off
Spark electrode must be free of soot/carbon build up.....clean with emery cloth
Spark electrode high voltage wire connection must be clean/tight
Spark electrode ceramic insulator can not be cracked....ground tracking
Spark electrode assembly screw must be clean/tight ------ground source for rod
Spark electrode gap 1/8"

Thanks for the Help, Had to replace the electrode. Brought the control board down to my local RV supply store and they did check it out and found that it was working properly. The electrode did look good, gave it a quick cleaning with some fine emery cloth porcelain was still shinny with no cracks in it. guess looks can be deceiving. As soon as I installed the new one and made a few adjustments it fired right up.