Atwood thermal cut-off issue
This one has me baffled. I had a spider web nest in the LP blow through tube causing a block. The thermal cut-off link blew as it should. I cleared the obstruction and removed the thermal cut-off (...
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Thanks for the reply Old-Biscuit.
I believe the new thermal cut-off links are the same as the one I removed except the new ones have 1 female connector and 1 male connector (They also sent a brn wire with a female connector on it).
The biggest confusion is; if I bypass the thermal cut-off with a jumper - all is fine, but once I put the thermal cut-off link in I blow the 15 amp fuse. I put a meter on the new thermal cut-off link and it measures 0 on the ohm meter, the same if I use the diode test (I don't really think this thermal cut-off link is a diode even though it looks like one, I think it is a thermal fuse. It doesn't limit the direction of the current but simply opens the connection if the temp gets too high). I got 3 thermal cut-off links and all read the same way. No resistance is the same as if I put a wire (jumper) in it's place. So why would I be pulling > 15 amps with the thermal cut-off link as compared to just using the jumper? They both show 0 resistance on the meter!
Thus the confusion.
I believe the new thermal cut-off links are the same as the one I removed except the new ones have 1 female connector and 1 male connector (They also sent a brn wire with a female connector on it).
The biggest confusion is; if I bypass the thermal cut-off with a jumper - all is fine, but once I put the thermal cut-off link in I blow the 15 amp fuse. I put a meter on the new thermal cut-off link and it measures 0 on the ohm meter, the same if I use the diode test (I don't really think this thermal cut-off link is a diode even though it looks like one, I think it is a thermal fuse. It doesn't limit the direction of the current but simply opens the connection if the temp gets too high). I got 3 thermal cut-off links and all read the same way. No resistance is the same as if I put a wire (jumper) in it's place. So why would I be pulling > 15 amps with the thermal cut-off link as compared to just using the jumper? They both show 0 resistance on the meter!
Thus the confusion.
