Atwood thermal cut-off issue
This one has me baffled. I had a spider web nest in the LP blow through tube causing a block. The thermal cut-off link blew as it should. I cleared the obstruction and removed the thermal cut-off (...
Forum Discussion
DVGaylin wrote:
Thanks for the reply.
I agree completely. Fusible link...
I am doing what I call the "Spock" method, BEST GUESS.
I am going to replace the most logical components and see if I get lucky.
I've ordered the Main Burner and the Spark Electrode.
I ordered the Main Burner because it is looking old and I just wanted better control over the air to gas mixture (nice blue flame with no noise).
I ordered the Spark Electrode because it is the end load that the control board controls and if it is pulling too much load? Best guess...
I'll try the Control Board next if the Electrode doesn't work but it is $100 - $150 so I am hoping it is the Electrode.
There really isn't anything else in the circuit.
In my first post IS a picture of thermal cut off INSTALLED........
As for all those parts....
thermal fuse is FIRST inline with the DC Circuit.
Look at wiring diagram ....DC from switch to circuit board then from circuit board to thermal cut off
NOTHING else gets DC until it goes thru the thermal fuse/thru t-stat and back to circuit board
Spark Electrode is LAST thing in the DC Circuit (along with the DC to Gas Valve---both get DC at same time)
15A Fuse blowing with thermal fuse in place BUT not blowing when thermal fuse bypassed suggest short/bad wiring (Brown wires)
When you say 'jumpers' are you using actual extra wires OR just removing thermal fuse and connecting brown wire from circuit board directly to t-stat??????
