Atwood water heated will not stay running.
I’m hoping someone can help me out. I have an Atwood G6A-8E that will not stay running. I can turn it on when it’s cold and it will run for about 10 minutes. I have timed this. Occasionally it’s a but...
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Thermal Cut Off is a 'One Shot Fuse'...BLOWS at 190*F and MUST be replaced.
Blow back from combustion chamber trips it.
The Zhongding circuit boards are faulty......and as of Sept 2018 should NOT be available. Atwood got rid of them, notified Dealers and Vendors to do the same.
No 'thermocouple' used on OPs model. Electronic Ignition which also is used for flame proving )Spark ELectrode)
Run for 10 minutes or so.....
Fault Light comes on-----
2 things trigger fault light
*Loss of Flame Proving signal----bad/dirty spark electrode, cracked ceramic insulator, dirty loose high tension wire/wire connector, loss of ground
*ECO (Energy Cut Off--HI Temp T-stat) opening (180*F---so water should be very hot cause T-stat failed to open at 140*F), bad/dirty-loose spade connectors
***Bad circuit board can cause either of the 2 items that trigger Fault Light
Blow back from combustion chamber trips it.
The Zhongding circuit boards are faulty......and as of Sept 2018 should NOT be available. Atwood got rid of them, notified Dealers and Vendors to do the same.
No 'thermocouple' used on OPs model. Electronic Ignition which also is used for flame proving )Spark ELectrode)
Run for 10 minutes or so.....
Fault Light comes on-----
2 things trigger fault light
*Loss of Flame Proving signal----bad/dirty spark electrode, cracked ceramic insulator, dirty loose high tension wire/wire connector, loss of ground
*ECO (Energy Cut Off--HI Temp T-stat) opening (180*F---so water should be very hot cause T-stat failed to open at 140*F), bad/dirty-loose spade connectors
***Bad circuit board can cause either of the 2 items that trigger Fault Light
