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erald's avatar
erald
Explorer
Oct 04, 2017

Atwood water heater anode rod

I have a 10 gallon atwood water heater and decided I wanted to clean this out since suspected the former owner never did much. So got me all the stuff I needed including a anode rod they advised me to put in.
When I opened the heater to flush it there was only a metal plug which looked like the anode was completely gone.
There was a lot of stuff in there and checking the inners with an endoscope I found a a lot of calcium still on the pipes, so going to fill it with vinegar to get that cleaned.

However my question is do you need that anode rod or not? I am reading it is not needed while other tel me it is needed or better advised to do so

What are the pros and what are the cons
  • And as is all to typical, Camco says "Camco RV Magnesium Anode Rod extends the life of a water heater by attracting corrosive elements in the water, protecting the tank and elements from corrosion. This Anode Rod fits Atwood water heaters."

    I'm not suggesting to believe this, just repeating what they say.
  • All correct. Return the anode and just buy the "two pack" of Atwood brand nylon drain plugs. I like 2 1/4 wraps of teflon tape on the plug.

    Be sure to either flush out or "vacuum" out (5' siphon hose)the minerals in the bottom of the tank-- the drain is NOT in the absolute bottom.
  • Plug should be the nylon from Atwood or other after market.
    No anode rod.
  • Just cause 'THEY' advised you should use one.....THEY are WRONG!

    Lots of items ar available via aftermarket but that has no relationship to actual need.


    Atwood doesn't supply one OEM..doesn't have an Atwood part number and states they are NOT required.

    Do the vinegar soak.
    Remove T&P Relief Valve
    Install NEW NYLON drain plug...Atwood uses NYLON due to high temp rating (Plastic temp rating is NOT high enough)
    10 gal WH tank------6 gallons of vinegar/4 gallons water
    Use funnel and fill WH tank with mixture
    Install T&P Relief Valve
    Run WH thru 4-5 heat cycles W/O using/adding any water
    Heat/let cool....repeat
    Then drain WH and flush

    (Do a 'power flush' but removing drain plug and then turning water on full and let it BLAST out of drain hole.....drain hole is only 1/2")
  • They make an Anode rod for Atwood. NOT an Atwood part and NOT needed on an Atwood. You NEVER install a metal plug on an Atwood. You only use a Plastic plug. Metal plugs will seize to the aluminum threads. Doug
  • Here is a quote from the Atwood website.

    "Atwood water heater tanks are constructed of a high strength aluminum.
    The interior of the tank consists of a .0015 thickness of type 7072
    aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the
    rolling process. This material protects the tanks from the effects of heavy
    metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to
    these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined
    tank except it will last much longer. Aftermarket Anode Rods are not
    required and should not be used and will void warranty."


    No anode rod needed.
  • Attwood heaters are made of aluminum and don't use an anode. Suburban heaters require an anode because they are glass lined steel and subject to galvanic corrosion.

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