theoldwizard1 wrote:
enblethen wrote:
Clean the circuit board connector.
Clean the gas burner tube
Test the ECO and thermostat while in the water heater
This unit is about 1 year old. The dealer has cleaned and adjusted the igniter and burner at a charge of $75. (Personally, I think the whole unit should be replaced, but the dealer has pretty much just thrown in the towel.)
Testing the switches while they are installed is difficult because you really don't know the temperature of the water/tank. My theory is that the ECO switch is (incorrectly) open when the temp switch is closed.
OK lets accept your theory of ECO failure. SIMPLE-REPLACE the ECO. I doubt the ECO is opening if the Main tstat (130-140) is opening and closing. I believe the ECO is a 180 trip(don't have my specs at home). Your other theory, REPLACING the Appliance. What will replacing it do? There are only 3 parts that can affect the operation (really 2). I will dismiss the Main tstat since it allows the ignitor to spark. Either the Circuit Board or the ECO will cause this problem. You have a BAD dealer. He should have called Atwood (since it is obvious he has nobody that knows what they are doing) and stated the complaint. They would have advised him of what I just stated. So, he would replace the ECO FIRST and then if the problem remained, replace the Circuit Board. Now, it is EASY to test the ECO theory. When the unit fails and you are there and the Circuit board starts the Ignitor, just test for 12 volts to the Gas Valve or each side of the ECO spades. LONG SHOT would be a bad gas Valve or something cloggiing the orifice in the gas valve intermittantly. To TEST a possible bad gas valve, you tap it with a hammer when the unit tries to ignite. IF it then lights, you have a bad gas valve. This is NOT always a good test but one that should work since the unit does light consistently. Doug
PS, YES a competent Technician WILL know the temp of the water when testing.
