Just bought a barely used 2017 Shasta Oasis camper, hope I didn't buy somebody else's problems. Anyway, the Atwood water heater will not keep running after it kicks on, it stays on for only about a minute or so then it shuts off for 10-15 minutes before it kicks back on again. When I look in from outside there is nothing that I can see that would cause this such as spider webs or wasps nests. I did notice that when I first turn on the switch inside the camper the "DCI-FLT" light comes on. Any ideas or suggestions?

Could be thermostat or ECO going open. Use an Ohm meter immediately after shut down check for continuity.Could be the probe for the ignitor/flame sensor is not in the flame. It should be red hot.Possible that the flame tube has restrictions. Remove and clean good.

RED Fault Light is triggered when flame fails to light and PROVE it litFlame Rectification ---milliamp signal generatedSpark electrode provides high voltage spark for ignition AND is return path for that milliamp signal*Electrode must be CLEAN---soot/carbon removed using emery cloth*High Voltage wire connection at transformer on circuit board clean/tight*High Voltage wire not loose in the ceramic insulator*Ceramic Insulator --no cracks--milliamp signal will go to ground and circuit board won't receive it*electrode must be engulfed in flame*spark gap 1/8" - 3/16"When flame lights off......is flame BLUE and quiet (very slight roar)?IF NOMight need to adjust air shutter ---typically only needs to be roughly 1/4 openMight need to clean orifice (soak in alcohol/air dry), clean burner tube (small bottle brush)Is this a GAS Only Water Heater OR GAS/Electric Combo?Gas only vs Combo use different wiring systemsSo what is MODEL?

The obvious question is: "Is the water heater full of water?"

Could be something as simple as corroded connections turn off water heater and remove and reinstall each connection after putting some dielectric compound on each one.

Model is GC6A-8EI found a mud dobbers nest in the flame tube, cleaned it out as best I could, thought my problem was solved but WH only ran 5 minutes before shutting back down.

Atwood water heater won't stay on. | Good Sam Community

enblethen
Nomad
Sep 12, 2020
Could be thermostat or ECO going open. Use an Ohm meter immediately after shut down check for continuity.
Could be the probe for the ignitor/flame sensor is not in the flame. It should be red hot.
Possible that the flame tube has restrictions. Remove and clean good.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 12, 2020
RED Fault Light is triggered when flame fails to light and PROVE it lit
Flame Rectification ---milliamp signal generated

Spark electrode provides high voltage spark for ignition AND is return path for that milliamp signal
*Electrode must be CLEAN---soot/carbon removed using emery cloth
*High Voltage wire connection at transformer on circuit board clean/tight
*High Voltage wire not loose in the ceramic insulator
*Ceramic Insulator --no cracks--milliamp signal will go to ground and circuit board won't receive it
*electrode must be engulfed in flame
*spark gap 1/8" - 3/16"

When flame lights off......is flame BLUE and quiet (very slight roar)?
IF NO
Might need to adjust air shutter ---typically only needs to be roughly 1/4 open
Might need to clean orifice (soak in alcohol/air dry), clean burner tube (small bottle brush)

Is this a GAS Only Water Heater OR GAS/Electric Combo?
Gas only vs Combo use different wiring systems
So what is MODEL?
trailrider
Explorer
Sep 12, 2020
The obvious question is: "Is the water heater full of water?"
jmerritt
Explorer
Sep 13, 2020
Could be something as simple as corroded connections turn off water heater and remove and reinstall each connection after putting some dielectric compound on each one.
Paul1944
Explorer
Sep 13, 2020
Model is GC6A-8E
I found a mud dobbers nest in the flame tube, cleaned it out as best I could, thought my problem was solved but WH only ran 5 minutes before shutting back down.
Paul1944
Explorer
Sep 13, 2020
How can I reply to a specific response? I would like to answer Old-Biscuit questions directly.
Paul1944
Explorer
Sep 13, 2020
trailrider wrote:
The obvious question is: "Is the water heater full of water?"

Yes.
Paul1944
Explorer
Sep 13, 2020
Old-Biscuit wrote:
RED Fault Light is triggered when flame fails to light and PROVE it lit
Flame Rectification ---milliamp signal generated

Spark electrode provides high voltage spark for ignition AND is return path for that milliamp signal
*Electrode must be CLEAN---soot/carbon removed using emery cloth
*High Voltage wire connection at transformer on circuit board clean/tight
*High Voltage wire not loose in the ceramic insulator
*Ceramic Insulator --no cracks--milliamp signal will go to ground and circuit board won't receive it
*electrode must be engulfed in flame
*spark gap 1/8" - 3/16"

Model is GC6A-8E
Flame is more orange than blue.
There is a wire with what looks like a resistor in it, what is that for?

Model is GC6A-8E
Flame is more orange than blue.
There is a little wire with what looks like a resistor in it, what is that for?

When flame lights off......is flame BLUE and quiet (very slight roar)?
IF NO
Might need to adjust air shutter ---typically only needs to be roughly 1/4 open
Might need to clean orifice (soak in alcohol/air dry), clean burner tube (small bottle brush)

Is this a GAS Only Water Heater OR GAS/Electric Combo?
Gas only vs Combo use different wiring systems
So what is MODEL?
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 13, 2020
"Model is GC6A-8E
Flame is more orange than blue.
There is a wire with what looks like a resistor in it, what is that for?"

8E has separate controls for electric & gas
ELECTRIC:
120VAC comes from a Circuit Breaker to on/off switch (backside of WH Tank) then thru set of T-stats to element (also backside of WH Tank)

GAS:
12VDC comes from Fused source to 'thermal cut out' (fuse in clear tubing----it blows at 190*F if flame blowback occurs and stops ALL DC to water heater. One shot device --replace if bad)
From thermal fuse DC goes to/thru TT-stat then to circuit board
Circuit Board then sends DC to ECO/Gas Valve AND spark electrode

Posted earlier
When flame lights off......is flame BLUE and quiet (very slight roar)?
IF NO (YOU stated more ORANGE then Blue)
Might need to adjust air shutter ---typically only needs to be roughly 1/4 open
Might need to clean orifice (soak in alcohol/air dry), clean burner tube (small bottle brush)
Paul1944
Explorer
Sep 13, 2020
Old-Biscuit wrote:
"Model is GC6A-8E
Flame is more orange than blue.
There is a wire with what looks like a resistor in it, what is that for?"

8E has separate controls for electric & gas
ELECTRIC:
120VAC comes from a Circuit Breaker to on/off switch (backside of WH Tank) then thru set of T-stats to element (also backside of WH Tank)

GAS:
12VDC comes from Fused source to 'thermal cut out' (fuse in clear tubing----it blows at 190*F if flame blowback occurs and stops ALL DC to water heater. One shot device --replace if bad)
From thermal fuse DC goes to/thru TT-stat then to circuit board
Circuit Board then sends DC to ECO/Gas Valve AND spark electrode

Posted earlier
When flame lights off......is flame BLUE and quiet (very slight roar)?
IF NO (YOU stated more ORANGE then Blue)
Might need to adjust air shutter ---typically only needs to be roughly 1/4 open
Might need to clean orifice (soak in alcohol/air dry), clean burner tube (small bottle brush)

On second check I find that model # is G6A-8E, no C. I tried everything suggested and still no luck keeping it running, since the red "DCI-FLT" comes on immediately when I turn on the switch I'm beginning to suspect I have a bad circuit board. What do you think?

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Atwood water heater won't stay on.

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