For the last three years we haven't done anything with our trailer other than to move it from a friends property where it sat disconnected. In February we finally moved it to our new and hopefully final property. Now with an eye on retirement free time in a couple of years we want to get this baby back in shape and actively camp until we can take some real extended trips.Here's my problem. Now we have a spot on our property with a 50 amp feed but only a 120 volt plug. That'll be remedied in the next month or two but since we've had it there and plugged in I've had two batteries die leaving the trailer without any 12 volt power. The 120 circuit works fine and I believe the 12 volt system works when it's plugged into the tow vehicle. At least it did when we got it set up to tow out to our new place last February.I'm guessing the battery charger system is not operational and something is draining the battery. Everything is turned off except one of the 120 volt lights.Where's a good place to start looking?

First if you have a small portable charger get it on the battery now while you sort this out.Next will be check the converter for about 13.6 volts output. 120v in, 13.6v out.Go ahead and post the model number of the converter for best answers.

With 110V AC power converter should put out 13.2V DC minimum when measured at converter with battery cables disconnected.Anything less.....converter is failed/failingBattery is not being recharged and that light being on is probably a 12v dc light (most in trailers are)Also check that 'emergency brake cable' hasn't been pulled out of switch accidentally.........that would be a continuous high amp draw on battery

Thanks both for getting back quickly. I'll get on to that stuff.Old-Biscuit wrote:Battery is not being recharged and that light being on is probably a 12v dc light (most in trailers are)Thanks but no, they are regular 120 volt lights in the slide over the couch and booth.

When you say you will remedy the problem of only having a 120v outlet... You mean you have a basic 15A outlet and you will be adding a 30A or 50A outlet later? I want to make sure you don't think you need to add a 240v outlet, because your trailer is only 120v, no matter if it is 30 or 50A.

Snowman9000 wrote:I want to make sure you don't think you need to add a 240v outlet, because your trailer is only 120v, no matter if it is 30 or 50A.As I understand it I do need at least a 30 amp outlet if I want to run the AC, right?I am anticipating we might like to use the trailer for overnight guests if we have more than the house can handle.

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11 Replies

Snowman9000
Explorer
Nov 15, 2014
RJsfishin wrote:
Snowman9000 wrote:
When you say you will remedy the problem of only having a 120v outlet... You mean you have a basic 15A outlet and you will be adding a 30A or 50A outlet later? I want to make sure you don't think you need to add a 240v outlet, because your trailer is only 120v, no matter if it is 30 or 50A.

Huh ?? A 50 amp RV service is 240 volts !

I had to look it up. You are right, thanks. I never thought far enough into it.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/pg/50amp_service.htm

Probably the problems we have read about involving fried RV components at 240v comes from mistakes involving 30A services.
newsomer
Explorer
Nov 14, 2014
ScottG wrote:
If you left the trailer unplugged for three years then the battery is junk. I would replace it first (since there's no way it's still good) and see how the charger works after that.
Yep, I see that's a given so I'll probably get that done this weekend.

To test the battery charging system I just leave the trailer plugged in and test the voltage across the two battery leads, right? Does it matter if the leads are on the battery or off?
ScottG
Nomad
Nov 14, 2014
If you left the trailer unplugged for three years then the battery is junk. I would replace it first (since there's no way it's still good) and see how the charger works after that.
newsomer
Explorer
Nov 14, 2014
handye9 wrote:
It is quite common to hear about somebody frying the the electrical systems in their RV, because the outlet had been wired incorrectly. Even licensed electricians, have gotten it wrong.
Rest assured I have a certified electrician with over 40 years experience helping me on this. We'll get it right. Thank you for your concern though.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Nov 14, 2014
Snowman9000 wrote:
When you say you will remedy the problem of only having a 120v outlet... You mean you have a basic 15A outlet and you will be adding a 30A or 50A outlet later? I want to make sure you don't think you need to add a 240v outlet, because your trailer is only 120v, no matter if it is 30 or 50A.

Huh ?? A 50 amp RV service is 240 volts !
handye9
Explorer II
Nov 14, 2014
newsomer wrote:
Snowman9000 wrote:
I want to make sure you don't think you need to add a 240v outlet, because your trailer is only 120v, no matter if it is 30 or 50A.
As I understand it I do need at least a 30 amp outlet if I want to run the AC, right?

I am anticipating we might like to use the trailer for overnight guests if we have more than the house can handle.

You are correct, in that you need at least 30 amps, if you want to run all the trailer systems. What you need to be careful with, is to ensure, whoever installs said 30 amp outlet, understands it is a 30 amp / 120 VAC outlet. That is with a single pole (30 amp) breaker, one hot wire, one neutral wire, and one ground wire. Also, wire guage must be heavy enough to carry those 30 amps, whatever distance it needs to be run.

It is quite common to hear about somebody frying the the electrical systems in their RV, because the outlet had been wired incorrectly. Even licensed electricians, have gotten it wrong.
newsomer
Explorer
Nov 14, 2014
Snowman9000 wrote:
I want to make sure you don't think you need to add a 240v outlet, because your trailer is only 120v, no matter if it is 30 or 50A.
As I understand it I do need at least a 30 amp outlet if I want to run the AC, right?

I am anticipating we might like to use the trailer for overnight guests if we have more than the house can handle.
Snowman9000
Explorer
Nov 13, 2014
When you say you will remedy the problem of only having a 120v outlet... You mean you have a basic 15A outlet and you will be adding a 30A or 50A outlet later? I want to make sure you don't think you need to add a 240v outlet, because your trailer is only 120v, no matter if it is 30 or 50A.
newsomer
Explorer
Nov 13, 2014
Thanks both for getting back quickly. I'll get on to that stuff.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Battery is not being recharged and that light being on is probably a 12v dc light (most in trailers are)
Thanks but no, they are regular 120 volt lights in the slide over the couch and booth.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Nov 13, 2014
With 110V AC power converter should put out 13.2V DC minimum when measured at converter with battery cables disconnected.
Anything less.....converter is failed/failing

Battery is not being recharged and that light being on is probably a 12v dc light (most in trailers are)

Also check that 'emergency brake cable' hasn't been pulled out of switch accidentally.........that would be a continuous high amp draw on battery

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