Been having some trouble with a break sticking when hot. Seams to be the left rear. I've replaced the pads, brake hose (on that wheel), greased guide pins and of course, bleed the system. After the rig has sat for a while the brakes with work well but after getting hot it some times sticks. I've driven recently an 80 mile trip (mostly highway) and had no problem. But then a quick 5 mile trek to get a safety inspection it started sticking on the ride home. Normally when the sticking occurs I'll noting a pulsing when breaking that's not normally there and at low speeds squeaking. Before a replace the caliper, is there anything else that could be the cause? Both roters routinely get to 450 degrease after driving so its possible both are sticking to some extent but the left you can smell burnt brakes when it happens. Is this typically of a bad caliper? Failing only when hot and sometimes working normally? I guess the best diagnostic procedure would be to drive it it happens then crack one of the bleeders open and see if the system is under under pressure.The first time it happened was on a trip home from camp. It got so bad I pulled over and dumped bottled. Water on both rear calipers (I know not a great idea) but after doing that they seamed to work fine the rest of the trip home.

Please post Year, Make, Model of the Chassis under your RV. I can say that on ours (signature) I've replaced all the Front Disc Brake stuff (Calipers, Pads, Hoses, Hardware, Bearings Packed and Drums Turned). And,The Previous Owners had new Loaded Calipers (calipers shipped with Pads and associated Hardware installed) and Hoses installed on the Rear. Looking at both types of brakes, it's clear that Ford uses an older design on the rears that seems would be more likely to not slide than newer designs.It's possible for the fluid return relief holes in the Master Cylinder to plug up with rust. If that happens it's like you're riding the brake pedal.

if it was a car I,d say the caliper is sticking. now that you,ve over heated the pads I,d change them again.

If it were both rear, I would look at the master cyl. Since it is only one, my guess would be the caliper or a collapsed brake line. Good luck.

Get the wheel off the ground and then apply the brake and release it then see if the wheel will turn. You will always hear a little contact noise when spinning the wheel but it shouldnt be dragging.The first thing to check is if the caliper slides are sticking and not letting the caliper float. I dont know how your caliper is retained but they all use some sort of slide or pin arrangement to let the caliper float. They become dirty/corroded and hang up. The next thing to look for is caliper piston sticking. The seal inside the caliper is of a square design. Its not of a round design like an "O" ring. When the fluid pushes against the piston it moves out and slightly deflects or drags the seal with it. When the brake pressure is released the seal wants to deflect back in and pull the piston away from the pad. Its not much movement, only thousandths of an inch but its enough that the pads are not rubbing all the time. It does what a spring would do on a shoe type brake system.Sticking /rusted/corrosion is especially true on equipment that is seasonal. Best thing for equipment/cars/trucks is to use them, not let them sit.

It's the caliper. Replace both rear units before it happens again and ruins the new pads.

Bad Caliper or something elce? | Good Sam Community

j-d
Explorer II
Aug 29, 2013
Please post Year, Make, Model of the Chassis under your RV. I can say that on ours (signature) I've replaced all the Front Disc Brake stuff (Calipers, Pads, Hoses, Hardware, Bearings Packed and Drums Turned). And,

The Previous Owners had new Loaded Calipers (calipers shipped with Pads and associated Hardware installed) and Hoses installed on the Rear. Looking at both types of brakes, it's clear that Ford uses an older design on the rears that seems would be more likely to not slide than newer designs.

It's possible for the fluid return relief holes in the Master Cylinder to plug up with rust. If that happens it's like you're riding the brake pedal.
midnightsadie
Explorer II
Aug 29, 2013
if it was a car I,d say the caliper is sticking. now that you,ve over heated the pads I,d change them again.
sclark
Explorer
Aug 29, 2013
If it were both rear, I would look at the master cyl. Since it is only one, my guess would be the caliper or a collapsed brake line. Good luck.
azrving
Explorer
Aug 29, 2013
Get the wheel off the ground and then apply the brake and release it then see if the wheel will turn. You will always hear a little contact noise when spinning the wheel but it shouldnt be dragging.The first thing to check is if the caliper slides are sticking and not letting the caliper float. I dont know how your caliper is retained but they all use some sort of slide or pin arrangement to let the caliper float. They become dirty/corroded and hang up. The next thing to look for is caliper piston sticking. The seal inside the caliper is of a square design. Its not of a round design like an "O" ring. When the fluid pushes against the piston it moves out and slightly deflects or drags the seal with it. When the brake pressure is released the seal wants to deflect back in and pull the piston away from the pad. Its not much movement, only thousandths of an inch but its enough that the pads are not rubbing all the time. It does what a spring would do on a shoe type brake system.
Sticking /rusted/corrosion is especially true on equipment that is seasonal. Best thing for equipment/cars/trucks is to use them, not let them sit.
ScottG
Nomad
Aug 29, 2013
It's the caliper. Replace both rear units before it happens again and ruins the new pads.
Cstoliker
Explorer
Aug 29, 2013
98 Ford E super duty Tioga Flyer.
westend
Explorer
Aug 29, 2013
'98 Ford, replace the calipers. I have tried to clean the sealing surfaces and lubricating but the Ford truck calipers are notorious for this type of failure.
B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Aug 29, 2013
It may be the caliper slides and not the internal parts of the caliper. Try cleaning up the bolts and area on the outside of the caliper where it mounts. There may also be some bushings where the attaching bolts slide through that are stuck or rusted. On the GMs I've had this has always been the problem, not the caliper itself..

B.O.
Cstoliker
Explorer
Aug 29, 2013
As stated above its already been done. I cleaned and greased all the moving parts. Caliper does not have bolts. Just slide pins.
John_Joey
Explorer
Aug 30, 2013
Cstoliker wrote:
As stated above its already been done. I cleaned and greased all the moving parts. Caliper does not have bolts. Just slide pins.

I've fought the same problem with my '96 Class A F53. Did all the standard stuff like you did. Replaced calipers with the best, and changed brake fluid every two years. Only way I could ever win. Even then, there were times I thought they were dragging after sitting for awhile.

Good luck, BTW backing up and hitting the brakes seem to help break them free.