One thing that is commonly overlooked is...
Depth of discharge
Discharge a 6 cell RV battery to 65% remaining, 35% consumed, then fully recharge it after 4 days, a good quality group 27 or 29 battery will give good service including lifespan.
But extract more than 65% remaining or let it sit for a week or longer and things go downhill, fast.
A few years ago I set up a pusher with three dedicated group 31 engine starting batteries to power an inverter dedicated to powering an eleven hundred watt microwave oven. The owner fully understood the pros and cons of the parts and agreed that for his use, the 900 CCA engine starting batteries were the best bet.
Even for a 20-minute defrost cycle, the engine starting batteries worked like a miracle. The bus had lots of solar panels on the roof - I cannot remember the data but the engine starting batteries were not left discharged for many consecutive days at a time.
Golf car batteries can endure mistreatment that will destroy a standard RV battery. But as frequently observed here golf car battery substitution comes at a price, size-wise, cost-wise, and performance-wise (CCA).
Throwing money at the situation to lessen the negative performance points, using absorbed glass mat batteries enters the picture.
Only the owner knows exactly how much load, meaning discharging values he uses. If it's in lighting, LED lamps can be very useful. If it's in a heater blower, then that complicates the equation.
I've seen RVs that consume 5 times the kWh on the road than the owner's home does (no this does not include ranges, refrigerators, or washer/dryers. The rig sits looking like a condo tower at night.
Operating three three ampere fans in direct sun means the entire production of 9 amperes of solar panels. Park in the shade and maybe the fans would not be utilized.
These are the sort of questions that must be asked and answered to arrive at an intelligent plan.