Battery Charge Requirements
Looking into a solar setup for my new trailer, first off is figuring out what I need for controller output to correctly charge my batteries. I'm planning on eventually having a pair of either 100w or ...
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Just remember, unless you want to become a PLATINUM GRADE BATTERY SHOP CUSTOMER...
Charge those batteries long enough to allow a few of the cells (meaning all) to bubble 1 or 3 bubbles per second per cell PER WEEK. Meaning once a week. I like to do it twice a week but then I hate buying batteries. Nothing on the face of the earth can substitute looking in a cell and verifying the electrolyte is starting to bubble. By doing this, and then looking at the voltmeter and ammeter and CALIBRATING what happens when, you can eliminate the visual check after a few trial runs.
It is Damned tough to beat an INTERMATIC spring wound 2-hour timer to bypass and over-ride the solar controller. But you have to start with the batteries almost charged and 2 hours of good daylight left. Wind up the timer and let it have at it. Don't let the voltage creep past 15 volts doing this. When you are ready to equalize, shut off the coach power switch and wind up the timer two or three times after the batteries have charged as much as they can.
A hydrometer, that is a real one, not a toy, works excellent to verify battery charge. It is the supreme court of verifying state of charge in a battery. I recommend a FRANCIS FREAS. BUT BUT BUT, by doing the timer battery bubbling twice a week or at least once a week you will reduce the need for using a hydrometer by 80% and the need for equalizing 90%.
NOW, you MPPT and PWM Freaks, out there, will BYPASSING the controller BUT NOT ISOLATING IT damage the controller?
Charge those batteries long enough to allow a few of the cells (meaning all) to bubble 1 or 3 bubbles per second per cell PER WEEK. Meaning once a week. I like to do it twice a week but then I hate buying batteries. Nothing on the face of the earth can substitute looking in a cell and verifying the electrolyte is starting to bubble. By doing this, and then looking at the voltmeter and ammeter and CALIBRATING what happens when, you can eliminate the visual check after a few trial runs.
It is Damned tough to beat an INTERMATIC spring wound 2-hour timer to bypass and over-ride the solar controller. But you have to start with the batteries almost charged and 2 hours of good daylight left. Wind up the timer and let it have at it. Don't let the voltage creep past 15 volts doing this. When you are ready to equalize, shut off the coach power switch and wind up the timer two or three times after the batteries have charged as much as they can.
A hydrometer, that is a real one, not a toy, works excellent to verify battery charge. It is the supreme court of verifying state of charge in a battery. I recommend a FRANCIS FREAS. BUT BUT BUT, by doing the timer battery bubbling twice a week or at least once a week you will reduce the need for using a hydrometer by 80% and the need for equalizing 90%.
NOW, you MPPT and PWM Freaks, out there, will BYPASSING the controller BUT NOT ISOLATING IT damage the controller?
