Battery drain + solar

tonymull wrote:
I ditched the wired CO2 and smoke detectors and put in AAA battery powered ones. Don't need that draw on the camper battery, ever. I use rechargeable AAA batteries, but even if not they only need changing once a year.

CO, CO, CO, CO, not CO2. CO2 is what makes your soda fizz.

beaubeau wrote:
Thanks everyone for the help. I've ordered a battery disconnect switch and a solar trickle charger. I wont' be able to leave the fridge running, but I will have a full battery when I get to the storage lot :)

Good plan. Batteries can be dangerous when shorted so disconnect the negative cable first. I also mounted my disconnect switch on the negative cable.

Since you've run the batteries down several time recommend you have them load tested to determine any reduced capacity.

I ditched the wired CO2 and smoke detectors and put in AAA battery powered ones. Don't need that draw on the camper battery, ever. I use rechargeable AAA batteries, but even if not they only need changing once a year.

Thanks everyone for the help. I've ordered a battery disconnect switch and a solar trickle charger. I wont' be able to leave the fridge running, but I will have a full battery when I get to the storage lot :)

Mine is kept in the storage lot and I am lazy so I was tired of pulling the batteries after a trip to bring them home and put on the maintainer. I put in a disconnect switch on the trailer and a solar panel on the roof to keep them charged up. One of the best things I did. now the night before I leave I just go to the trailer, flip the disconnect switch ad fire up the fridge

installing a $20 marine battery disconnect switch will prevent the parasitic power drains.
if you don't need to keep the fridge on, you don't have to go to the trouble of installing a solar system, unless that's something you want to have.

i put a cheap $4 battery disconnect on my two 12v deep cycle batteries and the batteries retain nearly full charge even after 4 months of storage.

No one can really address how much solar you need as it depends upon how much draw you have, how much sun, etc etc. 100W minimum on the solar. Best bet is to measure how much draw you have and then you might need more solar.

But solve the problem as dead batteries mean shorter batter life.

beaubeau wrote:
The breakers ... I was thinking that maybe the DC-to-AC convertor was being used to power something AC, from the battery, so I throw all the breakers. The DC side is still connected and could be drawing power.

I see what you mean about propane, I think. If I didn't have enough battery power then it would go into gas mode? If you don't have enough battery power the refer will shut down. It needs battery power for the electronics.

Thanks for the help.

The bullet proof way to solve the problem is to install a disconnect switch on the battery. This eliminates all loads.

IN my TT, the propane detector and stereo are parasitic draws on the 12V system. They are both on the same circuit, so I remove that fuse when I want to shut that draw down. CO and smoke detectors have their own 9V batteries.

I'm a little confused on the refrigerator comments since you say you leave it off in storage. But typical RV fridge operation has been described.

If you are storing it unattended, I suggest using a battery disconnect switch or removing the battery from the circuit while it is stored.

I thought it would optionally run on 12V, but just checked and the 12V is only for the controls display.
I just love this forum.
Thanks for all the help.