Battery equalization in southern California

IMO, Mex in his comments above, was confusing the B&D/Vector Recondition with the Equalize. The manual says to repeat the Recondition cycle several times before giving up on that. The R is a pulse type zapping that runs for 20 to24 hours and does not raise battery voltage.

It is controversial whether that R method does any good, but I find that it helps in conjunction with the Equalize function on a sulphated battery. After a couple of Es and SG has stalled but is still not high enough, an R will seem to "loosen" things and then another E will get the SG a bit higher than last time.

I got my beat up "previously enjoyed" T-1275s up to speed using the VEC1093DBD and alternating sessions of R and E.

The PowerMax charger with the variable voltage (the "car showroom" one--the converter doesn't have that option) is only available by special order AFAIK. Places that sell the "car showroom" charger with that option mostly/all don't offer that option (eg Go-Power does not) so you will have to call PowerMax itself (see 'contact us' for Errin) to get one.

The Equalize function of the VEC is the one that raises battery voltage to 15.7v temp comp (so you see 16.1v when it is cold out, eg) and it is automatic shut off when done --ie amps taper down till it says FUL) which is great because you can leave it run by itself and don't need to be there like with a manual charger doing that. So you can do that overnight and take the SG in the morning.

Mex is right that it might take a couple of Es in a row to get the SG up but that depends on what the batteries have been doing lately. for a simple stirring once is plenty.

For a person that does not want to learn the intricacies of lead acid batteries the Black & Decker 1093 is hard to beat. Temp compensated, equalization capabilities, and a reasonable 40 amp maximum charge rate. I recognize some of the names of the battery experts weighing in on this topic from years ago... There is a lot for anyone to learn from them!

The B&D1093 works excellently. I wish they made a 100A version of it. Its equalize function works great if you don't have time to babysit but it does require running it a couple or more times to get the job done whereas my HF just requires two hrs and it's done. I need to buy a timer for it so I CAN leave it by itself.

I will stand by my opinion the B&D with an automatic equalize button will do great. BFL-13 seems to do just fine with the B&D. Your batteries will certainly improve. Repeat once a month to keep them in shape. I would try to avoid the hydrometer unless you really need to diagnose an issue.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Mena, you are describing almost perfectly a form of top charging. I'll bet you do not have to equalize those L-16's very much...

I haven't since you told me about it. Thanks much on that!!

KendallP wrote:

Last I recall, his destrat regimen called for 21 day intervals.

You're probably right on that. I let the IOTA handle that duty now and it works great believe it or not (other stuff...well).

And yeah. I'm typing this from my fallout shelter. It's probably too late for you. You'd better just repent and hope for the best.

Damn. Just how long can one live on Double Stuf Oreo's anyways.

Mena, you are describing almost perfectly a form of top charging. I'll bet you do not have to equalize those L-16's very much...

mena661 wrote:
EDIT: Specific gravity MUST be taken into account BEFORE equalizing. If your SG is good don't equalize!!!! BUT BUT BUT the periodic stirring (taking the batts to 14.7V and letting them bubble for 15 mins) must be accomplished per Mex's recommendations for long battery life (I believe he mentioned once per week).

Last I recall, his destrat regimen called for 21 day intervals.

And yeah. I'm typing this from my fallout shelter. It's probably too late for you. You'd better just repent and hope for the best.

NinerBikes wrote:
Let battery sit for a day. Take your hydrometer and read the specific gravity of every cell of each battery. Log the results. You should see 1.270 t 1.280 specific gravity for every cell.

Yes. Temp adjusted, this is about right.

However...

If your battery has permanently hardened sulfate, you might get a lower reading, but yet your equalizing efforts have yielded all they're going to. And this is good to know. If you don't dry camp much, then you might be fine with 1.250 or something. Or... after employing my equalizing methods you find you're in "the white" range of the hydrometer, you may decide they're better used for their core-charge rebate.

Oh... also... be sure your electrolyte levels are up where they should be first. When full and resting, there still should be some gap between the top of the fluid and the top of the battery. This should leave room for heat expansion during equalizing.

If you're levels are a little low, but still above the plates, it might be a little safer to hold off on adding water 'til after your equalization work because that expansion is going to cause those levels to rise.

However, once you add water, you need to stir them again with an equalizing charge to remove stratification.

Also, that Rears and Sore-Butt charger of Niner's may be just the ticket.

Oh boy... Im in for trouble, Its a little intimidating but Im up for the challenge and with all the free expert advice on the forum Im confident I will getr done properly.

Niner, it won't take very long. My 740Ah bank only takes 2 hours tops for a top off and the same or less for equalizing. That's volts going into the mid 15's and amps topping out at 8.

KendallP wrote:

Disclaimer: This is just my opinion. I'm not an expert. You would be wise to do your own research, yada yada yada.

Whaaaaaaa! The DEAD has arisen!! Now where did I put that map to my bug out site....


EDIT: Specific gravity MUST be taken into account BEFORE equalizing. If your SG is good don't equalize!!!! BUT BUT BUT the periodic stirring (taking the batts to 14.7V and letting them bubble for 15 mins) must be accomplished per Mex's recommendations for long battery life (I believe he mentioned once per week).