Battery help please.

Vulcan Rider wrote:

Matt_Colie wrote:

But before you go and buy new batteries, go shopping for a good converter/charger (Progressive Dynamic, Xantrex or Iota) and get the smart 4 stage version.

IF....this is a unit that just sits more than it is actually in use, why "waste" the money when a simple automatic battery tender will serve the purpose very nicely and should cost less than $50.....and is portable too.

Because, with a constant voltage converter, every time the RV is connected to shore power, the batteries will be seeing that voltage, whether it is right or wrong. With a bank of two-6V's it will be wrong almost all the time.

If the batteries are discharged and the RV is returned to storage, the battery "tender" will not charge the batteries correctly.

For someone that likes a hands-off approach to battery maintenance, a small solar module with controller and either the water miser caps or AGM style batteries, would be a good solution.

KIS !! Keep it simple,.......update the converter, then just plug in the power cord, and forget it. Check the water twice a year. But I have never added water more than once a year using a PD9245. Previous RV, a PD9155 w/ wiz, same results, and batteries last 8 yrs minimum.

Matt_Colie wrote:

But before you go and buy new batteries, go shopping for a good converter/charger (Progressive Dynamic, Xantrex or Iota) and get the smart 4 stage version.

IF....this is a unit that just sits more than it is actually in use, why "waste" the money when a simple automatic battery tender will serve the purpose very nicely and should cost less than $50.....and is portable too.

I read what the others have written, but I make (made - before the depression) a living working on boat electrics (Same-Same). You have not said what you have. You call it a camper and that is pretty wide open.

That fact that you put that much water in a pair of GC2 and you are seeing a lot of corrosion, makes me want to agree that the bank is toast, but that should wait for the actual data.

If you left the unit powered up and it does/did not have a modern four stage converter/charger, then the bank is probably toast. Do the whole diagnostic first.

But before you go and buy new batteries, go shopping for a good converter/charger (Progressive Dynamic, Xantrex or Iota) and get the smart 4 stage version. This will cost you about the same as the batteries. The big issue is that you will never need that much water again and the batteries will be in good shape for years to come (assuming you don't kill them by over discharging them). A pair of GC2 will like a 45~60 amp charger. But you still should not ignore them.

Matt

Sorry but TOAST based on what you told us. New battery time. BTW as a former scout leader may I encourage you to set the example and tent camp with your boys. You can be dry and comfy while setting a good example. IMHO as always. happy Trails and thanks for scouting

HeathJohnson wrote:
Okay so I was asked to be an assistant scout master last summer. Our troop camps every month, year round regardless of weather. Thankfully leaders are not required to tent it so I bring the camper along for all of the leaders.

That has meant that when I winterized this year I only drained the water and such. I left the camper plugged in all winter and left the fridge running so there would be some draw on it.

When I went out to check on my batteries today I have all sorts of corrosion and it took 5 bottles (17oz) to fill them up!!!

I'm running dual 6V's I want to say they are about 4 years old at this point.

Do you think I'm still good or have I toasted these and need to replace them?

Replace them.

All last summer you boiled the electrolyte away by using the alternator/VR to charge deeply discharged 6V deep cycle batteries. Once most of the electrolyte was boiled off the individual plates would have begun to warp and short.

You may be able to recover to a 12.6 voltage level but in all likelihood you have lost ampere/hours.

That is a VOLTAGE regulator, it will put out MASSIVE levels of current, limited only by engine RPM or maximum alternator rating, in order to maintain the voltage at 14.4 VOLTS.

DO NOT connect deeply discharged deep cycle batteries to an automotive alternator/VR system. Connect a 500W inverter to the alternator/VR system and run the 120 VAC output to the RV converter that will regulate, limit, the battery charge rate.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
2 quarts plus of water. much corrosion. The batteries are damaged. Four years old. A real long-shot they can withstand the rigors of a long camping trip. Only you can call the shots on a coin-toss decision for new batteries.

When storing the rig...

Buy a BATTERY TENDER and plug it in.

UNPLUG the rig to neuter the converter.

Only use the converter for short sessions. No more than one week plugged-in with discharged batteries. No sense in spending a lot of money for a tiny bit of camping-time service.

What he said.

I would only add: Put the battery disconnect switch to OFF and connect the tender directly to the batteries.

Naughty boy.. you didn't check water all winter. Probably shot. is there any bulging? That's a sure sign they're toast.

Anyway, charge them up, and let 'em sit an hour then run something. Then check voltage.

2 quarts plus of water. much corrosion. The batteries are damaged. Four years old. A real long-shot they can withstand the rigors of a long camping trip. Only you can call the shots on a coin-toss decision for new batteries.

When storing the rig...

Buy a BATTERY TENDER and plug it in.

UNPLUG the rig to neuter the converter.

Only use the converter for short sessions. No more than one week plugged-in with discharged batteries. No sense in spending a lot of money for a tiny bit of camping-time service.

Check voltage is 13.2 to 13.5 and how full are you setting the water?
s/b 1/4" to 1/8" below the split ring that extends into the cell. Just touching is absolute max and may still push some water out. Otherwise the batteries might be shot.

How often do you run them below 12.0 volts?

Designing and installing ~200 watts of solar could be a project toward the electrical merit badge.