Forum Discussion
173 Replies
- pianotunaNomad IIIHi mena,
The reason I chose Uni-solar was because of lack of glass. I do drive on gravel roads. The other reason was that I did have enough "real estate" on the roof to meet my original needs which was battery charging for 3 125 amp-hour 12 volt batteries. I've since added four more and still have just enough solar with bank switching. - mena661Explorer
bdosborn wrote:
Thank you. This I can understand.
Designing a system for low light performance is very important to some RVrs but it's equally important that everything else that affects system performance is considered as well. - bdosbornExplorer
mena661 wrote:
bdosborn, I have a MH and don't have enough roof space to put anything but the most watts I can fit. I really don't get the purpose of the Unisolars despite the explanations, charts and graphs. Of course, it could just be over my head. I won't rule that out.
The purpose of the charts and graphs is to get people to realize that they don't have to guess about the performance they can expect from a PV panel. It's all listed on the specifications from the manufacturer. Too often the discussion regrading PV panels on this forum degrade to some basic categories:
"I know a guy who..."
"No Sir!"
"I'm Telling!"
It often occurs when people get locked into their own viewpoint and can't see the forest through the trees. You need to look at your requirements for PV and factor in important things like usage, budget, roof space, when you camp, where you camp, tilt or not tilt, etc. There isn't a one-size-fits-all approach to PV, it needs to be designed to fit your particular needs. Designing a system for low light performance is very important to some RVrs but it's equally important that everything else that affects system performance is considered as well.
Bruce - full_moseyExplorer
Salvo wrote:
John, do you have a spec link for your panel?
Sal
Sorry, no link.
It was purchased from sunelec.com on 2010-04-06, and apparently was a special order production overrun as it disappeared from their site when I went back to buy more. It was a perfect fit for my roof real estate.
The sticker specs are:
Volts 23.5/19.6
Amps 7.44/6.64
L/W 42 5/8" x 31 3/8"
19.6V x 6.64A = 130W
HTH;
John - SalvoExplorerJohn, do you have a spec link for your panel?
Sal - SalvoExplorerNo, get your facts straight.
HiTech wrote:
68 watt Unisolar maybe?
Jim - full_moseyExplorerSalvo;
Adding my Sun 130W Mono on a 1m^2 adjusted basis I get:
*************** US64 *** 135W Kyrocera***Sun130W Mono
Max Power ***** 64W ********** 135W ****** 151(1)
Low Light ***** 16W *********** 22W ******* 24(2)
(1). The Mono outperforms.
(2). Using the Kyrocera efficiency, (22/135)*151 = 24.
Amorphous loses all around on a 1m^2 basis!
All;
There is no need to lock horns. A simple fact check will do!
HTH;
John - pnicholsExplorer IIThe whole discussion above reminds me of one time when we were drycamping in a Walmart parking lot. I looked up at the light in the parking lot that we were parked under and wondered what kind of, and how many, solar panels it would take to charge up my batteries up by morning compliments of Walmart.
I think I've read of some posters getting power under moonlight from "solar" panels, but so far no mention of street lamps by the RV community. How much energy is wasted in this country from artificial light no one is using at the time? Maybe we need more motion activated light switches. - full_moseyExplorer
HiTech wrote:
68 watt Unisolar maybe?
Jim
Length: 2849mm (112.1”), Width: 394mm (15.5”),
is 2.849 x .394 = 1.1225 m^2
Adjusting to 1m^2, 68W / 1.1225=60.6W
V.S. my 130W Mono
1.082 x .796 = 0.86m^2
Adjusting to 1m^2, 130W / 0.86 = 151W
I'm pretty sure the 151W will produce more Watts in low light on a roof real estate basis.
HTH;
John - HiTechExplorer68 watt Unisolar maybe?
Jim
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