Would appreciate anyone who has a ceramic or other type portable heater to chime in and tell me what brand they have and if they feel it does a good job heating. My rig is a 32 feet Class C.thanks in advance,Jimbo

We have 2 of the small cheaper 1500W ceramic heaters that are common to Walmart etc. They are easy to store and you can run 2 on high (25A for both).

All electric heaters for home use have a maximum output of 1500 watts using electrical resistance for heat. You should be able to run two of them on a 30 A circuit. Sometimes the GRI breakers fight each other. I like the Little Buddy propane heaters for boon docking. They take the chill off quickly. So does making coffee. I don't run them when sleeping.

use a cheep heater and add one of these remote thermostats will make the temp control very accurate and you can move the thermostat to wherever it works best.Electric Outlet Thermostat with Remote Control amazon

Electric is all about 1500 watts or 5200 BTU and provides the same actual heat.The question is if you prefer radiant, forced air or convection?Radiant will reflect the heat direct on you for an instant feeling of warmth.Forced air will circulate the warmth some or direct it into a cold area.Convection will provide a steady even heat that seems slower at first but still provides the same BTU.I use a 1200 watt Delonghi radiator style and it works well for what we need and prefer. I like the lower wattage to run the circuit a bit less than the max as it often runs 24/7.

CA Traveler wrote:We have 2 of the small cheaper 1500W ceramic heaters that are common to Walmart etc. They are easy to store and you can run 2 on high (25A for both).pretty much the same thing except ours have heating elements and a fan. we use them on coolish nights when the furnace is too much and we want to do without the noise of the heat pumps. a 1500-watt heater at full bore will consume about 12.5-amps at 120-volts.

Best portable heater (30 amp) for my rv? | Good Sam Community

jimbo4UT
Explorer
Sep 19, 2020
wow lots of great tips, thanks everyone. I had an oil filled heater and i never got even close to warm. I tried using a fan blowing thru the heater to get it to give out heat and that didn't work either. Really like the idea of using another heavy duty electrical line from the pole to inside and just run the heater from that one. Saved on the rig electrical lines, i would think and you can place it where you want to. Thanks again everyone

Jimbo
bikendan
Explorer
Sep 19, 2020
gbopp wrote:
If you want quiet, get an oil filled heater. They take up more space but do the job.
Otherwise, get the heater you like. As said, they are all about 1500 watts.
Even the cheap ones.

That's what we use. no noise.
ppine
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2020
Heat in your trailer will help keep your tanks warm.
25 degrees is no big deal.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Sep 19, 2020
rk911 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:

Hi Lwiddis,

I replaced the furnace return air grill with this...It pressurizes the duct work and keeps the plumbing from freezing up. It is controlled by a mechanical thermostat which is tucked against the outside wall inside the kitchen cabinets.

got a link to share, pls?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Holmes-HAWF2021-WMUM-Dual-Blade-Twin-Window-Fan/17133777
RAS43
Explorer III
Sep 19, 2020
Lots of good advice here and good brands out in the market. I have a Holmes and a 1Touch, both 1500 watts. When one of them quits I will try a Vornado. I usually run one on low all night and have the furnace set as backup, the setting depends on the overnight low. Down to about 35 degrees the furnace may come on near morning. I have used 2 heaters at times when colder but placing them can be an issue and having 2 running is a concern for us. We have been out in nights down to the high teens. On those nights We open the kitchen and bath cabinet doors to warm the piping. I haven't had an issue with the tanks with these methods.
One thing I highly recommend is to run another heavy duty cord into the unit for one heater if the electric box has a 20 amp outlet. This takes the load off of the RV's circuits and makes it safer if two heaters are used. It is easy to do with slide outs as the cord can be passed by a seal.
pnichols
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2020
jimbo4UT wrote:
Would appreciate anyone who has a ceramic or other type portable heater to chime in and tell me what brand they have and if they feel it does a good job heating. My rig is a 32 feet Class C.

thanks in advance,

Jimbo

Here's what we use in our RV. It's an outstanding combination electric heater that simultaneously puts out both radiant heat and warm air heat.

We've had ours for years and have used it in our home and now use it in the RV. It's worth the wait until it becomes available again:
https://www.kmart.com/holmes-quartz-tower-heater-hqh320/p-006W060046311312P
rk911
Explorer
Sep 19, 2020
pianotuna wrote:
Lwiddis wrote:
750 watts keeps my TT warm but not my tanks. How are you warming your tanks?

Hi Lwiddis,

I replaced the furnace return air grill with this...It pressurizes the duct work and keeps the plumbing from freezing up. It is controlled by a mechanical thermostat which is tucked against the outside wall inside the kitchen cabinets.

got a link to share, pls?
coolmom42
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2020
CA Traveler wrote:
We have 2 of the small cheaper 1500W ceramic heaters that are common to Walmart etc. They are easy to store and you can run 2 on high (25A for both).

I second this. Unless it's really cold, you may need only one. I've used one in a 25' trailer and it would heat up the place really fast.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Sep 19, 2020
Lwiddis wrote:
750 watts keeps my TT warm but not my tanks. How are you warming your tanks?

Hi Lwiddis,

I replaced the furnace return air grill with this:

It pressurizes the duct work and keeps the plumbing from freezing up. It is controlled by a mechanical thermostat which is tucked against the outside wall inside the kitchen cabinets.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Sep 19, 2020
My preference is for no one type.

If there is a frozen compartment--a radiant heater is best. I've been able to meld the ice on the seal.

If there is a cold floor--electric heated carpets are best.

If there is room in the bedroom, a pair of oil filled, one on each side of the bed, may be the most comfortable.

If size is a concern, then fan based ceramics work a charm.

I keep a 240 volt incandescent bulb fed with 110 volts, on a mechanical thermostat beside my water pump.

To heat 100% electrically, replace the cold air return grill on the furnace with a twindow fan. In my RV that keeps a small amount of warm cabin air circulating through the duct work for the furnace, preventing plumbing system freeze ups.

My peak wattage in the deep cold is 7700 watts, and the continuous load is 5.4 kwh.

I do use my autoformer to keep the voltage up, so I get the full number of watts from my various and sundry heaters.

I've boondocked at -37 c (-34 f).