Hey Everyone,I am having trouble with the dump valve on my black tank leaking. Just a slow leak.I dumped and rinsed then added some "seal conditioner" that I found at an RV shop.That appeared to resolve the issue for a few days. Now it has started leaking again. I am thinking that replacement is the best solution. If I am able to find the parts here in San Carlos I am going to tackle the replacement.Do any of you have any tips or suggestions for making this easier or less offensive?Any volunteers to show me how it should be done :) ?ThanksSteve

Definitely a chitty job. As long as you have easy access to the knife valve for replacement it should be pretty easy. Aside from the obvious of making sure the tank is empty I would also make sure it was flushed out and cleaned as good as you can get it.

And after holding the drain open when the rig is sloped to drain into a bucket, then turn the rig around so that the drain valve is higher than the tank.

Just did mine for other reasons. Had to drop the underbelly. The rest is pretty simple. 4 bolts and nuts hold the valve together. Remove them, and open the gap between the two halves. Slip the old blade and gaskets out. Using lots of plumbers grease, grease up the new parts. Slip the new blade with gaskets in place. Install bolts and snug down. Do not over or under tighten or you will have a leak. Test by adding water to the tank. Yes it is a crappy job. Be sure to use disposable rubber gloves.

The good news is that changing the valve is a pretty easy task. Getting access to the valve may be a bit more tricky (I have to drop underbelly panels to get at mine).Do a good leak check before you put everything back together.

I've had a few slow leaks from the black tank. Never replaced the valve, just did a very good fill/flush the next time. After refilling the tank with fresh water, I open the valve slightly. The increased flow pressure going past the valve seat usually pulls whatever TP was stuck there so it can seat properly.

Black tank dump valve replacement tips? | Good Sam Community

HappyKayakers
Explorer
Nov 04, 2014
I've had a few slow leaks from the black tank. Never replaced the valve, just did a very good fill/flush the next time. After refilling the tank with fresh water, I open the valve slightly. The increased flow pressure going past the valve seat usually pulls whatever TP was stuck there so it can seat properly.
pugslyyy
Explorer
Nov 04, 2014
The good news is that changing the valve is a pretty easy task. Getting access to the valve may be a bit more tricky (I have to drop underbelly panels to get at mine).

Do a good leak check before you put everything back together.
donn0128
Explorer II
Nov 04, 2014
Just did mine for other reasons. Had to drop the underbelly. The rest is pretty simple. 4 bolts and nuts hold the valve together. Remove them, and open the gap between the two halves. Slip the old blade and gaskets out. Using lots of plumbers grease, grease up the new parts. Slip the new blade with gaskets in place. Install bolts and snug down. Do not over or under tighten or you will have a leak. Test by adding water to the tank. Yes it is a crappy job. Be sure to use disposable rubber gloves.
Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
Nov 04, 2014
And after holding the drain open when the rig is sloped to drain into a bucket, then turn the rig around so that the drain valve is higher than the tank.
DavidP
Explorer
Nov 04, 2014
Definitely a chitty job. As long as you have easy access to the knife valve for replacement it should be pretty easy. Aside from the obvious of making sure the tank is empty I would also make sure it was flushed out and cleaned as good as you can get it.

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