boondocking, need help asap....
Just put a new controller in for my 55w solar panel. It charges batts (2 12v) to full charge, but once the sun starts to go down the batts start to discharge and the controller shows red by morning. W...
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This is a brochure from progressive dynamic on how long it takes to re-charge a deep cycle battery. I suspect you are no where near getting any charge back into your batteries. This is battery science so there isn't many ways to get around the deep cycle battery charge process. Sorry...
"Progressive Dynamics ran this test on the amount of time it took a PD9155 (55-amp) converter/charger set to three different output voltages to recharge a 125 AH (Amp Hour) battery after it was fully discharged to 10.5-volts.
14.4-VOLTS (Boost Mode) – Returned the battery to 90% of full charge in approximately 3-hours. The battery reached full charge in approximately 11 hours.
13.6-VOLTS (Normal Mode) – Required 40-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78-hours to reach full charge.
13.2-VOLTS (Storage Mode) – Required 60-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 100-hours to reach full charge."
The bottom line here you need to have a 14.4VDC voltage charging source with a minimum of 20AMPs capacity per battery to be able to charge a standard deep cycle 12VDC battery to its 90% state of charge in as little as three hours time. If you don't ever get the deep cycle batteries back up to their 90% state of charge then they will not perform as specified.
Please note on the brochure how long it takes a 13VDC source to re-charge a deep cycle battery... The other problem is your solar source is only 45WATTS which relates to around 3AMPs of available power. This is a good trickle charge unit for being connected to your your battery when parked at home and the rest of the trailer disconnected.
Also all trailers have a parasitic drain associated with them such as monitor broads, propane monitors, etc which by them selves will discharge a fully charged deep cycle battery in a few days if left connected. My battery system see around 1AMP of this type of parasitic drain. The way around this problem is too install a battery disconnect switch or just remove the negative battery terminal when not in use.
You should also purchase an inexpensive multimeter from WALMART-LOWES that only costs around $7-$15 which will give you exact battery terminal readings. The percent reading most trailers come out with do not do very well reading what you actually have.
just my thoughts
"Progressive Dynamics ran this test on the amount of time it took a PD9155 (55-amp) converter/charger set to three different output voltages to recharge a 125 AH (Amp Hour) battery after it was fully discharged to 10.5-volts.
14.4-VOLTS (Boost Mode) – Returned the battery to 90% of full charge in approximately 3-hours. The battery reached full charge in approximately 11 hours.
13.6-VOLTS (Normal Mode) – Required 40-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78-hours to reach full charge.
13.2-VOLTS (Storage Mode) – Required 60-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 100-hours to reach full charge."
The bottom line here you need to have a 14.4VDC voltage charging source with a minimum of 20AMPs capacity per battery to be able to charge a standard deep cycle 12VDC battery to its 90% state of charge in as little as three hours time. If you don't ever get the deep cycle batteries back up to their 90% state of charge then they will not perform as specified.
Please note on the brochure how long it takes a 13VDC source to re-charge a deep cycle battery... The other problem is your solar source is only 45WATTS which relates to around 3AMPs of available power. This is a good trickle charge unit for being connected to your your battery when parked at home and the rest of the trailer disconnected.
Also all trailers have a parasitic drain associated with them such as monitor broads, propane monitors, etc which by them selves will discharge a fully charged deep cycle battery in a few days if left connected. My battery system see around 1AMP of this type of parasitic drain. The way around this problem is too install a battery disconnect switch or just remove the negative battery terminal when not in use.
You should also purchase an inexpensive multimeter from WALMART-LOWES that only costs around $7-$15 which will give you exact battery terminal readings. The percent reading most trailers come out with do not do very well reading what you actually have.
just my thoughts
