Brake Change Out Question

I would submit expenses for a disk brake set up. Even if just the price of drums (+install labor) was paid. Then I would do a self install of the disks. BTW self adjusting works way better on disk.

http://dexteraxle.com/disc_brake_retrofit_kits1

http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Brakes-sf-Disc_Brakes-sz-7000_lbs_Axle.aspx

I replaced the original Al-Ko brakes on my recently sold FW (Lippert frame) with Dexter self-adjusting brakes. I discovered that brake/axle components are very common in the trailer industry. I called e-trailer.com, told them what I had, and they set me up with bearings, hubs/drums and backing plates (with brakes already mounted). Very easy.

I actually had the president of the company call me tonight at 8:30pm their time to apologize and let me know that they have my back and everything will be taken care of. He said not to worry, they'll make it right. Wow, just wow.

Posted: 01/06/15 01:02am Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
Seems odd for a 2014 to have such trouble without the hubs even filled.
Sounds like poor service or wrong parts installed more than OEM defects.
Doubt "Made in China" has anything to do with the issue.

From checking on the owners forum for Grand Design I saw where they had a run of bad seals for awhile. I think they issued a recall for it.

Thanks for the feedback folks. I went with brake assemblies that are manufactured by Mobile Outfitters which is a subsidiary of Lippert. These are forward self adjusting brakes that were carried by Camping World. They were $72.93, which is cheaper than a manually adjusting version that was on Lippert's web page.

For the seals, I ordered them from e-trailer as recommended above.

Happy trails.

Jim

I would try to purchase grease seals manufactured by SKF Sealing Solutions. The seals were formerly made under the name CR (Chicago Rawhide). SKF is the largest bearing manufacturer in the world. I know that SKF makes bearing kits for trailers that also contained the seals.

Ray

You can get replacement brakes assemblies, bearings and seals directly from Lippert.

I agree Dexter brakes are probably the best but I am not sure if they will fit on a Lippert axle. Best bet IMO is to order everything from Lippert, this way you will know it all fits. I also have Lippert axles, and I had ordered my last set of seals from these guys and they are good quality double-lip seals. I also use Mobil 1 grease on the bearings.

heck, with the reimbursement, replace the whole axle set up..

http://www.trailerrvparts.com/Lippert-7000LB-Straight-Spring-Brake-TrailerRv-Axle-95HF-80SC_p_744.html

Seems odd for a 2014 to have such trouble without the hubs even filled.
Sounds like poor service or wrong parts installed more than OEM defects.
Doubt "Made in China" has anything to do with the issue.

When I was buying a spare set of bearings for the "just in case stuck along side the road" scenario, where I go http://www.sixrobblees.com/also supplies many shops with trailer parts. They surprised me by saying the brand of bearing I have even though they are made in china they don't have very many problems with them and would recommend replacing with same. The brand is called "Gemini". As far as the seal goes that is different he said and highly recommended "tru-ride" (e-trailer also has them). He said the spring on back and how pliable and thick the rubber is plays a big part in separating good and bad in seals http://www.etrailer.com/Seals-for-Trailer-Bearings/TruRyde/RG06-090.html

If it were me... Before you do buy anything, I would check the price of the parts for what you want and add them up. Sometimes you can get whole assembly for less then buying part by part and just have to bolt it on. If FW manufacture is going to pay I would make sure what exactly they were paying for before buying whole a new set up. Just new brake pads, no big money expense there IMO.

As far as grease goes I used to use Ford super high temp grease at $12 a tube. Not anymore switched to "Supertech" as it is much cheaper and you can get at any Walmart 4$ or 5$ I think.

Lithium complex, NLGI: grade 2, Droping point: 450 min and "marine grade" which only means it has 1 1/2 or 2 percent more anti-corrosion stuff than regular grease.

I also made the decision to change grease because if my bearings are running more than 450 degrees it doesn't matter what type of grease I have, I've got a problem.