Brakes and Bearing

Back a number of years ago when I worked in the auto shop at Sears, packing wheel bearings was a daily thing. Two things that supposedly caused failed bearings, using solvent to clean old grease and not getting all the solvent out which caused a film apparently on the bearing surfaces that lead to problems later. The second was spinning the bearing dry with air pressure to dry it out, apparently left minor scratches on bearing surfaces that could lead to failure later. Not sure how accurate these items are, but to this day, I use paper towels (not rags) to clean old grease and repack by hand. I don't wash in solvent and don't spin them dry with air.. If there is a questionable bearing, I replace both bearing and race.

I also would never replace used wheel bearings if they are good. They have been time tested and will run the next gauntlet.

Whereas you don't know what you are taking out of the box

Not trying to steal thread. I'm doing mine now and spent 3 hours trying to get the stupid cotter pin in. Our 1990's trailer the cotter pin just dropped in the hole when aligned. Not on our 2013 model, even though it came with pins. They changed in "spring 2002". A member on here directed me to the right info. Boy this forum has some great people on it! The ez-lube thing gets in the way when you try to re-install the cotter pin with units made after spring 2002. Even though it leaves the factory with a cotter pin, replacement part name is "special jam nut for e-z lube" part number 006-191-00 and spindle nut retainer for ez-lube part number 006-190-00
see page 57

http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/600-8K_Service_Manual/Hubs_Drums_and_Bearings.pdf

So if you see a cotter pin and RV made after spring 2002 the method of holding spindle unit in place might be different.

Also prior to this project I called them... my axles came with Lithium grease, (unknown brand) and has dropping point "above 400 degrees" (all I could get out of them besides see your local dealer)

I also picked up spare bearings,seals and cones/cups for the road, just in case. Or as wife says, "Now, those bearings will never go out because we're hauling around more spare parts; again". Hope she's right. Which brings up that OP didn't say what type or year model he had. He might have the "never-lube" which must be dealt with differently? Aren't they pressed off and on at a machine shop, which might be a little hard to do in driveway or along side the road.

RJsfishin wrote:
I think you should just have done it and not asked !
There is no reason to buy any bearings, unless you find bad bearings. Bearings normally last a lifetime. There is also no reason to collapse a seal to get it out. Use a stick of wood (3/4 x 3/4 x 6" long) to knock out the inside bearing, and the seal will come out w/ it,....undamaged. I seldom replace wheel seals,....they don't wear out, except in a million miles.

Fairly true, even with a set of Chinese bearings. As long as they have good alignment, are greased with good grease, and assembled correctly, they'll run a mighty long time, 10's of 1000's of miles.

FWIW, back in the day, all vehicle bearings were serviceable. Your family Ford or Chevy had serviceable front axle bearings, too. We used grease like skin conditioner. :)

IMO, using a grease packing tool does a better job than forcing it in by hand, although I've done it that way too. The important thing is to use good grease and use a lot of it.

Inspect the magnets for wear and the connections are solid.

chuggs wrote:
I would download the service manual for your axle...BOTH AL-CO ..

AL-KO
http://www.al-ko.us/811.htm

I think you should just have done it and not asked !
There is no reason to buy any bearings, unless you find bad bearings. Bearings normally last a lifetime. There is also no reason to collapse a seal to get it out. Use a stick of wood (3/4 x 3/4 x 6" long) to knock out the inside bearing, and the seal will come out w/ it,....undamaged. I seldom replace wheel seals,....they don't wear out, except in a million miles.

great, thanks, so I may not be able to just run down to the auto parts store for the seals and should at a min. get them in before I open it up. thanks again

I use extream duty greese.

You have the basics...

I would download the service manual for your axle...BOTH AL-CO and DEXTER have good references on their websites. It's important to correctly identify the axle on your trailer. For example the spindle size on a 3500# trailer axle is the same as a 4,400# axle trailer...but many of the parts, bearing, brake pads, etc...are not interchangeable...they fit but aren't rated for the extra load.

They also have recommendations for axle bearing grease...

Leading up to the job...If you pan on keeping the trailer for any length of time... Order a set of bearing and races for each wheel. I prefer Timken bearing kits. Also order new grease seals...the double lipped ones for use with trailer brakes. Buy some greast....and have a hardy supply of shop rags or paper towels. Yes...brake cleaning fluid is good to have too. You may, as a precaution order some extra cotter pins to fit your axle.

In addition to the tools required to pull the wheel off...it's nice to have a dead blow hammer, hammer, punch, small pry bar, grease packing tool (or you can pack them by hand) Torque wrench. 1 1/2" socket for axle nut ??? your size may be different... Rubber mallet.

I pull the wheel...knock the hub cap off skew gently with the rubber mallet...turn the hub and use a screwdriver to drive the hub cap off... Pull the cotter pin. Remove the axle nut, washer... outer bearing cone... wheel hub... lay it face down. Use the punch to deform the grease seal on the back. When it's deformed enough to loosen a small prybar will remove it. Dispose of the old grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone.

Now wipe out all the junk inside the hub. Inspect the races. If they're in good condition I would wait to replace them on condition in the future. Otherwise your going to have to seat new races. When the races are completes. Give them a good coat of fresh grease. Pack your new bearing as desired. Place the inner bearing cone in the back of the hub. Place a new grease seal on the hub and drive into flush with a bearing seal driver and dead blow hammer...a block of 2x4 works too... Before replacing the hub...inspect the brakes. I believe you want at least 1/16" or more pad...check you specifications.... also check the brake magnet for wear. You can use brake cleaner to clean the brakes, and inside of the wheel hub. If needed replace brake assemblies or worn pads, and magnets on condition. Torque specs for assembly bolts are in your service manual... 32 - 50 ft/lbs for my axle... When happy with brakes... clean your spindle good...and I like to wipe a nice even thin coat of grease on the spindle. Replace the wheel hub... Insert freshly packed outer cone...washer....nut... Depeding on manufacturer. They say torque the nut to 20 ft/lbs...another says 50 ft/lbs... while turning hub. The idea is to make sure the races where fully seated. Then loosen the nut...retighten by hand...or to 7 ft/lbs...then back out just enough to align the cotter pin hole with the castle nut. Insert cotter pin, bend tangs... Replace hub cab... Now, remove the adjuster covers on the back of the brake assembly. I use a small flashlight and screwdriver. Tighten the brake ajuster until it binds the hub. Then back off until you can spin the hub and get 3/4 - 1 revolution before it stops. Replace the covers... Reinstall you wheel... and torque it down in 3 stages...using a star pattern.

The manufacturers service manual will direct you to re-torque the lug nuts at a prescribed interval. Also there is a burning procedure recommended for new brake pads...and a re-adjustment schedule for the brake adjuster.

If you decide to replace brake assemblies...it sometime takes liquid wrench, and a propane torch to get those nuts loose. Also, you'll probably need some wire connectors. I use the heat shrink style butt connectors. They make a water proof connection for the brake magnet wires...

I just finished doing mine today. I did three wheels yesterday...and the last on today. I keep the bearing...and at a later time, I'll soak them in cleaner, and repack them with grease...stick them in a cool whip container for the next time. I replaced two of the four brake assemblies... I could have gotten more wear out of them...but I was opting to stagger the installation....so I'm never forced to swap out all 4 at once. It's a time consuming project....so I'd rather just do one axle at a time.

I'm sure there are tons of others out there with more experience than I... We're always here to help out.

Enjoy your new 5th wheel...