I have a 92 p30 chassis motorhome.I have the four headlight system.Two on the outer for dim and two on the inner for bright.I know there is a way to make all four to come on when on bright but dont know how to make it happen.Can someone help me out here and tell me how to do it?I would really appriciate it,Thanks.

Rewire the low beam wires to the common connection on your high/low switch. In this way the low beams will be on all the time, and only the high beams go on or off.

Such a modification is probably illegal.Not that you will be bothered by the law, All those retrofit HID kits installed into halogen reflectors are illegal, but it does not stop the masses from blinding the rest of the masses with high glare poorly aimed blue floodlights? Not often, but I have seen a few offenders being written up.If the goal is brighter more effective headlamps, making sure the headlights actually receive battery charging voltages makes a huge difference. The difference in lumen output between 12.0v and 14.5 is huge, 50% brighter at 14.5v.I was suffering nearly 3 volts drop over my stock wiring. I used the stock wiring to trigger relays and made a new 12awg harness. My voltage drop is now 0.3v and very few vehicles that pull up next to me at night, have better lighting, and I just have sealed beam 6054 headlamps, which are now where near as capable as modern housings.The following site should be perused and studied by anybody interested better forward vision at night.http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

I bought a kit from LMC Truck and installed that on my old 93 Chevy 2500. Real simple to install and made my lights stay on together. What a difference...and am sure it is available at a lot of auto stores. I think I paid about 20 bucks for it.

As landyacht said. Proper voltage first then as cpaulsen said install a relay kit to run more current through a relay and not run both beams on your switch. Sometimes the switch or connector on the back of it will melt.

landyacht318 wrote:Such a modification is probably illegal.Actually, it's not.. There are several headlight combinations some do use all 4 lamps for either HIGH or LOW (Forget which)What I am about to describe may not work with some DRL systems (like the one GM and Workhorse use)Assuming you have a column mounted Headlight switch.. on the connector at the base of the column there are 3 wires you will need to ID, Using a test light with a sharp probe ground the test clamp and turn on the headlights, low beam.look for TWO WIRES that are HOT (Identify and tag all hot wires)now turn OFF the lights,,, Look for the two wires that are NO LONGER hot.Short them together DO NOT USE SCOTCH LOCK connectors (not good enough) now when headlights are on Low beams will workIF you have DRL's.. Then it's may be a bit tricker.. You will need to see if the wires are HOT with engine running, and DRLs active (This may be hard to do since you need parking brake released, I do not know if the DRL's work in Park without testing).If you find 3 wires that are "Warm" (hot but not as bright) then it will work.. If only two, and only one of them the same, it might not. Post and I will work up something.

bright lights | Good Sam Community

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
May 23, 2014
He, wife, dog and two cats headed back to Sn Miguel de Allende. The tough part was the base mounting. He purchased a pair of 5" cube blocks of ironwood. Palo Fiero. Used a rasp to contour the bottom to the roof. Drilled a pair of 3/4" holes. He borrowed my NutSert tool and a to 3/8" X 24 stainless nutserts for the roof. Scratched the fiberglass and drilled 1/8" holes for a place to grab the GOOP and he drilled a few dozen very shallow 1/8" pilot holes in the blocks and left the surface roughened with a grinder disc. Control switch to defeat high beam operation.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
May 23, 2014
Here is a link to something that looks exactly the same. I did not purchase it. He did. I fed it with red and black 12 gauge cross link XL wire, and a 20-ampere ATO fuse.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Light-bar-140w-LED-Cree-spot-off-road-race-driving-4x4-SUV-roof-bar-UTV-ATV-/281090452652?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41724becac&vxp=mtr
landyacht318
Explorer
May 23, 2014
Pau Ferro is unbelievably beautiful wood. Harder, Denser than Red Oak
http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/pau-ferro/

I however developed a sensitivity to it after a belt sander was shooting the dust into my belly button.

Pretty Oily. Oil based Minwax polyurethane would not cure on top of it. Had to use water based Poly.

I had no issues with titebond2 adhering to it, but others report gluing failure. I guess it depends on exactly how Oily any particular Piece of wood is.

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