Broken pin/bolt on Jayco fold-out latch

Go to your local hardware store and secure at least a grade 5 bolt and nut and replace the inferior hardware RV manufactures use.

Best as I can tell, this isn’t a standard bolt and nut, and I don’t see how I’d replace it with such.

Mike Taverniti wrote:
Go to your local hardware store and secure at least a grade 5 bolt and nut and replace the inferior hardware RV manufactures use.

This appears to be a good application for a shoulder bolt and nut. See link. May be available at the hardware store like Ace Hardware.

Shoulder screws

Looks like someone did a poor rivet job.

Short carriage bolt (head in back, doesn't look like much room there), a nylon washer between the parts, and a nylock nut on the outside. Trial assembly to make sure it fits/works, then JB Weld the bolt into the rear piece prior to final assembly

What about just using JB Weld on the existing rivet?

mike-s wrote:
Short carriage bolt (head in back, doesn't look like much room there), a nylon washer between the parts, and a nylock nut on the outside. Trial assembly to make sure it fits/works, then JB Weld the bolt into the rear piece prior to final assembly

JB Weld is great stuff, but I don't think it will stand up to the forces in play on that type of repair.

Thread the hole where the rivet was, and use a shoulder bolt like was mentioned. A little Loktite should help hold things together.

Shep Huntwood wrote:

mike-s wrote:
Short carriage bolt (head in back, doesn't look like much room there), a nylon washer between the parts, and a nylock nut on the outside. Trial assembly to make sure it fits/works, then JB Weld the bolt into the rear piece prior to final assembly

What about just using JB Weld on the existing rivet

Mostly, because that requires the whole thing to be assembled while it sets, which means there's a danger of it squishing out between the pieces and interfering with their operation. And, it would also be difficult to fill the small space with thick epoxy.

But also because I don't trust epoxy that much - better to have a solid mechanical fix first. The JB Weld is not for strength per se, just to help hold the bolt in place and keep it from moving around so there's less slop. I'm guessing it's unlikely that a hardware store carriage bolt would be a tight fit.

If the arm which the rivet goes into can be easily removed, it might be possible to re-expand the rivet with a hammer and centerpunch. Or cross drill and pin it in place. Or drill and tap the end of the rivet in 3 places around the circumference (between the rivet and the plate it attaches to) and then use set screws to lock it in place. Or slit the rivet and drive a wedge in. Or many other things if a machine shop is available, which I'm guessing not since the OP asked the question.

Hard to say what's best/easiest without hands-on to see how loose the current fit is, whether there's a shoulder on the rivet, and how much clearance there is to work with behind the installed piece.

Or just see how much a replacement costs from a Jayco dealer.

fj12ryder wrote:
Thread the hole where the rivet was, and use a shoulder bolt like was mentioned. A little Loktite should help hold things together.

The problem with that is finding a bolt of the right size, with the right length shoulder. Likely to require making one with a lathe, etc. Plus, the hole in the outer piece would need to be enlarged to be bigger than the threads (if there's a shoulder on the rivet, it's not much of one). So, expensive (large) taps and drills, and a hard to find or custom bolt. There are easier, cheaper, and better ways.

My suggestion was based on workable solution with what could be easily done with a $10 trip to the local hardware store. What I'm not sure of is how much clearance there is behind, and whether there's room for the head of a carriage bolt.

I’d be leery of taking the hinge off the trailer. Would a blind rivet nut hold up in this application?

In the upper right picture, does the right hand side of this part, with the rivet missing, have to rest flat against the panel it's holding shut? In other words no room for a bolt head or a nut on the back side? If that's so, would a carriage bolt, head ground down to "nearly flat", still allow it to work? Or a flat head countersunk bolt? Once fixed, I'd be planning to do the other side as well. It looks like there's leverage exerted on that riveted area, in a "break it in two" direction.
What's diameter(s?) of the hole(s)?