Buck Gizmo -Volts vs Amps ? UPDATED

My guess is that printed circuit board is used for numerous converter applications and is not utiized in the configuration you are purchasing. There probably is a model where the converter can be activated via an ignition key (such as in a golf cart) but that model does not appear to be for that use. If you look at the bottom of the board when you receive it the two "key" holes are probably bridged together.

Thanks. I do have it in hand. Underneath, the two holes are not in the same solder, but they are in a busy area where each hole may be related to its own small collection of things, with those collections linked, no idea.

If I can just ignore the Key part then I will :)

You'll only get 4 amps minus losses. Each unit puts out about 27 watts. 54/14 = 3.8.
Power sources in series amps don't add.

Oh yeah, that's right... you would need 4 power supplies, just as you need 4 batteries for series/parallel.

But either way, your experiment would show how many amps are gained thru the bucking process.

yes I said bucking, not... :)

12thgenusa wrote:
You'll only get 4 amps minus losses. Each unit puts out about 27 watts. 54/14 = 3.8.
Power sources in series amps don't add.

Thanks, yes I will correct the OP.

Before wiring this to anything, more questions--

I gather the wattage rating would be 32v x 15a = 480w and you need one more volt in than out to get anything out.

I gather watts out = watts in minus a bit for efficiency (heat etc) so ignoring that let's pretend watts out = watts in. So,

If I have 27v and 2a in, that's 54w and if I set output voltage to 14v, I should get 54/14 = 3.8a.

It seems if I lower the voltage I would get more amps out. But if I am using it to charge a battery, lowering the voltage would reduce the amps going into the battery during the Absorption Stage.

If I want to use the gizmo to equalize a battery with constant amps at 16v, then I would have initially 54/16 = 3.4a which the battery would taper. Mex says to keep the amps constant for this. Those other gizmo's let you raise the voltage a bit at a time to keep amps constant.

So if I want more amps and raise this gizmo's output voltage then the gizmo will lower its output amps, and if I lower the gizmo's voltage to get more amps the battery will taper its input amps even more, so howinheck---

Do those other gizmos with CV and CC adjustments work trying to suck and blow at the same time?

Time to assemble and play BFL...

None of my 17 buckers and boosters meet design specs for maximum/minimum E or I

Buck and Suck, Boost and Blow? Careful here hombre, you treadin' on mighty thin ice.

BFL, the problem is you are starting with too low a power supply. (54 watts)

EQ'ing a 200Ah bank would require at least a 160w power supply (16v @ 10a). An individual 200Ah 6 volter would require at least 80w of power input (8v @ 10a).

The gadget is fine, the power going to it is not. If the solar panel was providing over 6 amps at 27 volts, you'd be golden.

Methinks his example was hypothetical...

So the CV- only gizmo always does its max amps output within the watts, while the CV/CC gizmos can output fewer than max amps and less than input voltage. Where do the remaining not- being-output, input watts go?

This leaves some watts left over, so you can slowly raise voltage while the less- than- max amps are held constant? Limit being when you run out of watts?