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64 Replies
- John_JoeyExplorerTake a few deep breaths and relax. These things happen, it's not the death of your rig either. Camping by the beach wasn't the issue, it was the lack of routine sealing on the roof.
Once you seal that area the wall will dry out, no need to run an oven or do anything drastic. I would not take out the window unless you've done that before. It's easier said than done, and not easy at all if you're doing it by yourself.
I would fix that area with Dicor caulk now before any more damage is done. Then I would wait to get into a dryer area to clean and reseal the whole roof. Take your time and do it right. From that picture of the leak, your roof should have had a reseal long ago. Never a good sign when the caulk has deep cracks like that. All you need do is pull up any loose caulk, scrub the old stuff real good, then place a thin coat of Dicor on top of the old or into the removed caulk areas. Work in two foot sections, and use the back of a plastic spoon to smooth the new caulk with. The self leveling will then take over and give you a nice looking job. - westendExplorerI would suggest that you clean the roof and area adjacent with diluted bleach/water solution. Don't worry if a little of that goes down the crack, it might help. Clean the cracked rood area, again, with alcohol and a rag. Fill the crack at the roof--wall joint with either Dicor or a polymer based caulk, Proflex RV is one. Don't use any garden variety latex or silicone sealant product on the repair.
- cannesdoExplorerAnd assuming the best case scenario, if I can get it opened up and dried out tomorrow -- is there a caulk I can get from the hardware store that will work for just that one section for now, until next week when I get settled in another spot? I can do the whole roof then.
- cannesdoExplorerOk, that's a relief. Can't wait to get that opened up. Just take the window frame out from the inside, yes? I did that once with the bathroom window. Outside frame appears to be silconed on. My worst fear is black mold. I've been by the beach all summer (3 blocks away) and after the sun sets the humidity is thick. There's black stuff in that pic at the roof edge. Would aluminum/foam help to prevent mold too? I checked and no warping of the cupboard walls in that area.
I see some moisture, about 1-3" on the kitchen floor behind the drawers, by the outer wall. This pic was taken below the oven. I think cranking up the oven tomorrow might help dry that out. That or the infrared heater. ?
It feels like damp dust. No odor at all. - FisherguyExplorerYa, better than fiberglass, if it was fiberglass the whole wall cavity would be soaked.
Got it, "she"! :D - cannesdoExplorer"She". :)
- cannesdoExplorerLooks like it's aluminum and foam. Is that good?
- FisherguyExplorerYes but there would still be more damage below the point where water is getting in than above.
Besides, at this stage what's your point? He already said the leak is coming from the roof above (which I already said I missed) - mayo30Explorer
RVUSA wrote:
Water will wick up insulation and any close fiber material,evaporation from infiltrated water will move up as well,but I do agree gravity tends to pull water down.Look at the numerous pictures on the net that show water damage on a floor with water marks up the studs when opened up.Fisherguy wrote:
If it was the windows the problem would be under the window.
What make RV is this BTW? (Just curios)
gravity rarely moves water upward. :B - cannesdoExplorerI don't know much about that. I removed the shower skylight once and it was hard foam between the sheeting, but I don't know about the studs. I just know it's really well made. Alum. would be better than wood, yes? For water damage?
It's very comfy. Got through 23 below in MT with it. I feel so bad. Feel like I totally ruined it. :( Learned this one the hard way.
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