Bulge in exterior fiberglass...

Cannesdo

I see that you posted the fact your heading to Palm Springs. I myself would do ALL the repairs when you get to that dry climate!

Best place in the world to work with water damage like the desert. That dry air will do good for your rig! Keep us posted on your issue.

westend wrote:
Adzel used in a composite wall structure is not immune to mold should the correct temperature and humidity be reached

I strongly disagree with this statement. I also thing Hanwa Mfg, the makers of Azdel would disagree with your statement as well.

Azdel IS IMPERVIOUS to water, mold and mildew.



For an example of Compositek, an Azdel like substrate;

Compositek Video

WoodGlue

cannesdo wrote:
What else do I want to use the silicone on? I mentioned it before only because that's what's sealing the outside of my kitchen windows and I simply noted that it appeared to be in good condition, no breaches from the outside that I could see. I asked a lot of people about the screws and all recommended the silicone to waterproof them -- literally half a dozen people. No other suggestions were made -- and one of the guys was a marine hardware supplier in Puget Sound. I don't just walk into Walmart when there's a problem and find something sticky and call it a day.

You're correct, stick with the local advice and forego some of this internet stuff. Remember being an internet expert and having real life working knowledge for an area are two completely different things.

On your rubber roof you need to use Dicor (all RV places will have it) you also have the choice of using a sticky tape (Eternabond) but at this point I wouldn't. Just reseal the roof with Dicor, I would also wait to get to the desert to do the whole roof job. If you're in a humid area you'll be fighting the dew (and salt) for most the day on the roof. That roof has to be completely dry and clean to ensure a good seal. Right now all you have is a small 10 inch section that needs attention, no need to feel like the whole thing is going to fail any minute. This was just your wake up call that you waited way too long to reseal the roof. You survived it with minimal damage.

For non rubber roof sealing I like the most expensive tube of "GE II silicone for doors and windows." It is what they use in areas that have high heat (like AZ.) This caulk seems not to melt when the temps get extremely high. Make sure it is the very best that GE makes though. Use that caulk on all non rubber roof areas. Again thin is good, don't glob it on thinking the seal will be better, it won't.

Good luck, and don't lose a lot of sleep over this, you just left the ranks of internet experts, and got some real world working knowledge thats all. See you on the road and safe travels.

On edit:

BTW, most of us near salt water do swap out the screws for SS, but we only do a handful now and then since it's a big job. What I like to do is use a small square of butyl tape over the hole then drive the new SS screw thru it. I then peel off the excess tape from the fiberglass with my finger. Can't imagine how water would enter doing it that way. Again good luck.

WoodGlue wrote:
You have wet Luaun in the walls. Luaun is a wooden board used in walls and when it gets wet, it expands and contracts, helping to cause delamination. I'd say your best bet is to let the thing dry out completely before resealing anything (if you're able to). You may have mold and mildew on the inside of the walls as well, as wood and trapped moisture usually is a recipe for mold & mildew.

It looks like maybe you should hire a professional to do the repair work as it looks severe.

That's why composite substrates like Azdel or Compositek are such lifesavers if you do develop a leak. Azdel will not absorb water, and is mold and mildew proof. Azdel coupled with 2" block foam insulation and pinch rolled fiberglass (like Lamilux) is almost bulletproof. Only a couple of RV manufactures employ this technique.

Good luck to you,

WoodGlue

There are no absolutes about the materials in the OP's damaged area and the propagation of mold and mildew. Adzel used in a composite wall structure is not immune to mold should the correct temperature and humidity be reached.

The best tactic the OP could use is to seal that opening and, therefore, lower the humidty. That would lower the potential for any mold in the walls and further delamination The wall structure will dry out because it is not hermetically sealed.

I do have an ozone machine.

You have wet Luaun in the walls. Luaun is a wooden board used in walls and when it gets wet, it expands and contracts, helping to cause delamination. I'd say your best bet is to let the thing dry out completely before resealing anything (if you're able to). You may have mold and mildew on the inside of the walls as well, as wood and trapped moisture usually is a recipe for mold & mildew.

It looks like maybe you should hire a professional to do the repair work as it looks severe.

That's why composite substrates like Azdel or Compositek are such lifesavers if you do develop a leak. Azdel will not absorb water, and is mold and mildew proof. Azdel coupled with 2" block foam insulation and pinch rolled fiberglass (like Lamilux) is almost bulletproof. Only a couple of RV manufactures employ this technique.

Good luck to you,

WoodGlue

What else do I want to use the silicone on? I mentioned it before only because that's what's sealing the outside of my kitchen windows and I simply noted that it appeared to be in good condition, no breaches from the outside that I could see. I asked a lot of people about the screws and all recommended the silicone to waterproof them -- literally half a dozen people. No other suggestions were made -- and one of the guys was a marine hardware supplier in Puget Sound. I don't just walk into Walmart when there's a problem and find something sticky and call it a day.

mark5w wrote:
It will be difficult to get the substrate dry behind the filon wall. Sometimes a water activated glue like Gorilla glue will stick or a marine epoxy like PC 11. Don't plan on getting it flat.

my experience with gorilla glue is that it only works by expansion of foam, has no real "sticking" ability. used some to glue a cane handle onto the shaft. continual stress back and forth while walking "burst all the bubbles" and the handle just fell out. NO stickiness.
bumpy

the first thing you should do is throw away that tube of silicone sealer that you seem to want to use for everything. get some 3M marine adhesive instead or of course for caulking you could use one of the dicor products.
bumpy

Thanks for that. Yes, once I saw the edge of the roof I realized it was the caulk issue. I didn't know until tonight you could caulk over caulk. I thought it all had to be immaculately removed and redone so I put it off until summer then didn't expect it would be so humid here so I was going to wait for the desert. I don't feel good about waiting for the desert at this point with some fall rain sure to fall so I'm going to do the whole shebang next week. I'll do it right. I can't bear risk doing any more damage.

I also have to replace 800 screws on the outside as Alpenlite didn't cover them with protectors so they are starting to rust. Have stainless to replace them with but have to pain the heads of them. Was going to put silicone in each hole but don't know if I'm up for that. Anyone know how essential that is?